LIBRARY OF^ CONGRESS. 

Shelf -.Mfe^ 



UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



'^^4 



THE 



GOLDEN MEAN 



-IN- 



COOKERY, 



-BY- 



\^r 



mcXi^ 






AUTHOR OF ''PRACTICAL ETIQUETTE." 



/ >^/0 c? ' 



W. L. KLEIN & CO. 
MINNEAPOLIS, MINNESOTA. 

1884. y 

/ 



/ 



<^^'^ 

^ 



COPYRIGHTED 1884. 



CONTENTS. 

For Culssifieo Inpex, seb Paoes 141>144. 

CHAPTER I. 

BREAD : Yeast Cakes— Soft Yeast— Hop Rising 
— Salt Rising — Graham — Sour Milk Graham — 
Boston Brown — Steamed Corn — Rje — ^Oatmeal. 

CHAPTER II. 

Raised Biscuit — Rolls — Rusk — Snails — Baking Pow- 
der Biscuit — Gems — Muffins — ^Johnny Cake — 
Breakfast Toast— Waffles. 

CHAPTER III. 
Soups — Stews — Oysters. 

CHAPTER IV. 

Meats. 

CHAPTER V. 

Fish — Poultry — Game. 



CHAPTER VI. 
Catsups — Sauces for Meats and Salads. 

CHAPTER VII. 
Vegetables and Vegetable Dressings — Beans — Eggs. 

CHAPTER VIII. 

Griddle Cakes — Cookies — Doughnuts — Ginger 
Bread. 

CHAPTER IX. 

Cake — Frosting — Icing — Crystallization. 

CHAPTER X. 
Puddings — Pudding Sauces — Pastry. 

CHAPTER XI. 
Jellies — Jams — Preserves — Pickles. 

CHAPTER XII. 

BE VE RAGES : Coffee — Tea — Broma— Choco- 
late — Lemonade — Ice Cream — Ices, Etc. 

CHAPTER XIII. 
Creams — ^Custards — Fruits — Confectionery. 

CHAPTER XIV. 
A General Bill of Fare. 

CHAPTER XV. 
Food for the Sick. 



lnn^^oDUGmoN. 



^f N the preparation of this work, we have omitted 
^^all matter at all foreign to the subject, which, 
though it might be appropriate, would increase the 
price of the book and make the cookery depart- 
ment no more acceptable. We have aimed at mak- 
ing this a complete^ comprehe^isible and economical 
Cook Book, one which should be of every- day use, 
and have tried to bear in mind the beginners, who 
trip so easily over all obscure recipes, as well as the 
house-keepers of long standing, who buy a cook 
book for variety's sake. 



"Good bread and good drink, a good fire in the hall; 
Brawn, pudding, and sauce, and good mustard withal; 
Beef, mutton, and pork, stewed pies of the best; 
Pig, veal, goose, and capon, and turkey well drest; 
Cheese, apples, and nuts, jolly carols to hear. 
As these in the country are counted good cheer." 

— Ttcsser. 



CHAPTER I. 

BREAD. 

Yeast Cakes— Soft Yeast— Hop Rising— Salt- 
Rising— Graham— Sour Milk Graham— Bos- 
ton Broavn— Steamed Corn— Rye— Oat Meal. 

As no meal, however good in other respects, is 
perfect without good bread, we will suppose it to 
be the first wish of the house-keeper's heart to 
learn how to make it, if she doesn't know how al- 
ready, and if she does, she may wish to try some 

different way. 

yeast cakes. 

Twin Bros. Eagle, National and many other 
yeast cakes are good when fresh, but if you make 
your own, you are sure of their efficacy. To make 
them, boil two handfuls of hops in three quarts of 
water ; strain through a sieve, and while boiling 
hot stir in flour till it is as thick as a thin batter ; 
when cool add yeast, either a cup of soft yeast, a 
small yeast cake, or a cake of compressed yeast ; 
when very light thicken with cornmeal, and form 



8 THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER Y. 

into cakes with the hands. The upper shelf in the 
pantry is a good place for drying them ; turn them 
often, and be sure that they are thoroughly dry ; it 
is a good plan to tie them up in a bag and hang 
them behind the stove for a few days when they al- 
ready seem dry. 

SOFT YEAST. 

Take six good sized potatoes, wash and pare them 
and put to boil in two quarts of water, and with 
them a small handful of hops in a small bag tightly 
tied. When the potatoes are quite soft take them 
out and mash them fine, pouring upon them the 
water in which they were boiled, adding a little 
water to make up for what may have boiled away ; 
then stir in while hot four tablespoonfuls of flour and 
two of sugar ; when cold add yeast. Let the mixt- 
ure stand until very light. The time required for it 
to rise will be five or six hours in summer and long- 
er in winter ; when it is sufficiently light bottle 
and put in a cool place, but do not let it freeze in 
winter. It will keep several weeks. 

HOP-EISING BREAD. 

One tablespoonful of lard, one heaping teaspoon 
of sugar, a small one of salt and one cup of flour ; 
stir into these about a pint of boiling water, beating 
it thoroughly ; then one pint of cold water ; if suffi- 
ciently cool add a cake of hard yeast, or one of com- 



THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER V. 9 

pressed, or a cupful of soft jeast, and flour enough 
to make a thick batter. Put this in a pan with flour 
sprinkled over the top, and well covered with a 
clean cloth ; in winter the warmer it is kept the bet- 
ter. Let it rise over night ; knead it over before 
breakfast, and when very light knead again for the 
bread pan. Each time that it is kneaded do it thor- 
oughly^ but use as little flour as possible. Bake 
carefully from three-quarters of an hour to an hour. 
This will make three loaves. 

HOP-RISING BREAD (No. 2). 

Another nice recipe is one in which four or five 
mashed potatoes are used instead of the lard and 
scalded flour, and where scalded milk is used instead 
of water. Always use the best of flour, as it is the 
cheaper in the end. We prefer the patent or " new 
process " flour. Do not get too much at a time, and 
keep it well covered in a box, bin, or tin can made 
for its use. To cool the bread, place a clean towel 
on the table and set the bread on its edge upon it. 
If the crust is too hard, dampen a clean cloth and 
spread over it with a dry one over all. A large jar 
is the best thing to keep bread in, as it can be so 
nicely scalded and aired. So can a tin box made for 
the purpose. If it is necessary to cut the bread 
while warm, heat the knife you use. It is easier to 
replenish the bread plate often than to cut too much 



lo THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER K 

and have such a quantity of stale bread on hand to 
dispose of, though it can be done without waste if 
care is taken. 

SALT-RISING BREAD. 

Take a pint of warm water {not hot) in a perfectly 
sweet dish and stir up a thick batter, adding a tea- 
spoon of salt. Beat it %oell and set the dish into a 
pan of warm water. It will begin to rise in from 
two to four hours. When it is nearly light enough, 
mix a sponge in a pan witb a pint of milk and a 
pint of boiling water. When this is milk- warm, add 
the "rising." The sponge thus made will be light 
in from two to four hours. 

GRAHAM BREAD. 

One pint of light sponge, one-half cup of molas- 
ses, one pint of lukewarm water, a little salt, a small 
teaspoonful of soda dissolved in water, and graham 
flour stirred in with a spoon till it cleaves from the 
tin. Let it get very light though it may take a long 
time. 

SOUR MILK GRAHAM BREAD. 

One and a half pints sour milk, half cup New Or- 
leans molasses, a little salt, two teaspoons soda dis- 
solved in a little hot water, and as much graham 
flour as can be stirred in with a spoon; pour in well 
greased pan, put in oven as soon as mixed, and bake 
two hours. 



THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER V. 1 1 
BOSTON BROWN BREAD. 

One heaping coffee-cup each of corn, rye and gra- 
ham meal. The rye meal should be as fine as the 
graham, or rye flour may be used. Sift the three 
kinds together as closely as possible, and beat to- 
gether thoroughly with two cups New Orleans or 
Porto Rico molasses, two cups sweet milk, one cup 
sour milk, one dessert-spoon soda, one teaspoon salt; 
pour into a tin pail, place in a kettle of cold water, 
put on and boil four hours. Put on to cook as soon 
as mixed. It may appear to be too thin, but it is 
not. Give it room, in the pail to swell. Cover it 
over; when done set it in oven for a few moments; 
it will then turn out it in perfect shape. 

STEAMED CORN BREAD. 

Two cups each corn-meal, graham flour and sour 
milk, two thirds cup molasses, one teaspoon soda; 
steam two hours and a half. 

RYE BREAD. 

Make sponge as for wheat bread, let rise over 
night, then mix it up with the rye flour (not so stiff 
as wheat bread) and bake. 

OATMEAL BREAD. 

Half a cup of oat-meal before cooked for one loaf. 
Cook it as for the table (by putting on it cold water, 
and cooking it in a custard kettle or in a tin pail set 



12 THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER V. 

in a pan or kettle of boiling water, for two or three 
hours). Then add two tablespoons of sugar, a little 
salt and the yeast; set it over night; in the morning 
stir it stiff with wheat flour; let it rise again; then 
knead with wheat flour and put it in pans; when light, 
ake thoroughly or it will be sticky. 



CHAPTER 11. 

Raised Biscuit — Rolls — Rusk — Snails — Baking 
Powder Biscuit — Gems — Muffins — Johnny 
Cake — Breakfast Toast — Milk Toast — Waf- 
fles. 

raised biscuit. 

Take a part of the dough at the time of bread- 
making, a quart basin nearly full of dough when 
ready for the bread tins will make a large tin of bis- 
cuits; knead into this a cupful, more or less, of but- 
ter, roll out and cut with cookie-cutter; prick sev- 
eral times with a fork and let rise. It takes all of 
two hours for them to rise and be baked. If you 
want biscuit and not bread, set the sponge as for 
bread, over night (but a less quantity) and make the 
next morning, after having let it rise once again. If 
you want them for tea and have quick yeast, the 
sponge need not be set till morning. 



THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER K 13 

ROLLS. 

Take a piece of bread dough, enough for a small 
loaf, and roll out on a bread-board; then spread 
thickly with butter, knead it in and roll out again, 
spread with butter a second time and roll up like 
roll jelly cake, cut off from the ends in pieces about 
a finger long. When laid in pan, grease the sides 
with butter or lard that they may not stick together; 
wet the top with the white of an ^gg if you wish it 
to be glazed, let rise and bake. 

RUSK. 

Two teacups raised dough, one teacup sugar, half 
cup butter, two well-beaten eggs, flour enough to 
make a stiff dough; set to rise, and when light mold 
into high biscuit, and let rise again ; sift sugar and 
cinnamon over the top and place in oven. 

RUSK (No. 2.) 

One pint milk, three eggs, one teacup each of but- 
ter and sugar, and one coffee-cup of soft yeast; 
thicken with flour and sponge over night; in the 
morning stir down, let rise and stir down again; 
when it rises make into a loaf, and let rise again; 
then roll out like soda biscuit, cut and put in pans, 
and, when light, bake carefully. 

SNAILS. 

Roll out dough as for bread rolls, spread thickly 



14 THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER Y. 

with butter, sugar and cinnamon, roll up and cut off 
from ends in pieces an inch long; lay them flat in a 
well greased tin, sprinkle on more sugar and cinna- 
mon; when light, bake twenty minutes or half an 
hour. 

BAKING POWDER BISCUIT. 

Two cups of sifted flour, into which work two 
heaping teaspoons of baking powder, a pinch of salt 
and two tablespoons of lard and butter (or either 
one), wet this up with a cup of sweet milk; stir with 
a spoon; form into biscuit with the hands; leave soft; 
bake quick and they are delicious. 

GEMS, 

One cup of sweet milk, one well beaten ^^^'gi two 
tablespoons of melted butter, a little salt, two cups 
of flour into which you have sifted two heaping tea- 
spoons of baking powder, heat the gem irons and 
grease before putting in batter. 

GRAHAM GEMS. 

One well beaten ^gg^, two tablespoons of melted 
butter, a pinch of salt, one cup sour milk, in which 
dissolve a small teaspoonful of soda, two cups of 
graham flour. Heat and grease gem irons. 

MUFFINS. 

Mix one pint milk, two eggs, three tablespoons 
yeast, and a little salt, with flour enough to make a 



THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER Y. 15 

stiff batter; let rise four or five hours and bake in 
muffin-rings in a hot oven, for about ten minutes. 
This recipe may be made w^ith graham flour, by add- 
ing two tablespoons of molasses, and is excellent. 

JOHNNY CAKE. 

One cup of sour milk, small teaspoon soda, a table- 
spoon of melted butter, one ^^^t two tablespoons of 
sugar, a pinch of salt, three tablespoons of flour and 
enough cornmeal to make a batter. 

BREAKFAST TOAST. 

Add to half a pint of sweet milk a little salt and 
one well-beaten ^^^^ Dip pieces of bread in this (if 
dry let them soak) and fry in as little grease as pos- 
sible to brown them nicely. 

MILK TOAST. , 

Thicken a pint or a quart of milk, according to the 
number of slices of toast, with corn starch or flour 
blended with water, add a piece of butter the size of 
an ^^^\ salt and pepper and pour over the toast. 

WAFFLES. 

One quart of flour, three teaspoons baking powder, 
a little suit, two tablespoons of melted butter, two 
well-beaten eggs, and milk enough to make a thick 
batter; stir well and bake immediately in waffle- 
irons. 



i6 THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER K 



CHAPTER III. 
SOUPS. 

Soups — Stews — Oysters. 

The best base for soup is lean uncooked meat, a 
pound of meat to a quart of water, to which may be 
added chicken, turkey, beef, or mutton bones well 
broken up; a mixture of beef, mutton and veal, with 
a bit of ham bone, all cut fine, makes a higher fla- 
vored soup than any single meat; the legs of all 
meats are rich in gelatine, an important constituent 
of soup. For white stock use veal or fowls instead 
of beef. 

Soups, which make the principal part of a meal, 
should be richer than those which simply precede a 
heavier course of meats, etc. 

When remnants of cooked meats are used, chop 
fine, crush the bones, add a ham bone or a bit of 
ham or salt pork (two or three cubic inches) and all 
ends of roasts and fatty parts, and the brown fat of 
the roast; scraps of underdone beef, mutton and veal. 

Let your materials be what they may, they should 
be put over the fire in cold water, and kept at a low 
temperature for the first hour, at least. The chief 
secret in the art of soup-brewing is steady, slow 
cooking for a long time. 



THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER V. 17 

Seasonings for soups may be varied to suit tastes. 
The simplest may have only pepper and salt, while 
the richest may have a little of every savor, so deli- 
cately blended that no one is conspicuous. The best 
seasoning is that which is made up of the smallest 
quantity from each of many spices. No measure can 
be given, because the good soup-maker must be a 
skillful taster. There must be a flavor of salt; that 
is, the water must not be insipid (less is needed if 
bits of salt meat are used), there must be a warm 
tone from the pepper, but not the taste of pepper; in 
short, the spicing should be delicate rather than pro- 
fuse. For brown soups the dark spices may be used, 
for white, mace, aromatic seeds, cream and curry. 
Many herbs, either fresh or dried, are used as season- 
ing, and all the choice catsups and sauces. 

Rice, sago, pearled barley, vermicelli, macaroni, 
etc., are desirable additions to meat soups. The first 
three are used in the proportion of half a teacup to 
three quarts of soup; wash and soak. Rice requires 
half to three-quarters of an hour boiling in the soup; 
sago cooks in fifteen minutes; barley should be 
soaked over night, or for several hours; boil by itself 
in a little water till tender; add to the soup just be- 
fore serving; macaroni should be broken up small 
and boiled half an hour. 

Put no salt or other seasoning in the soup until 
meat and vegetables have yielded up their goodness. 



i8 THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER V, 

As a rule, season just before you are ready to remove 
it from the fire. 

A wide- mouthed stone pot with straight sides is 
best for a stock jar. It should be well glazed on the 
inside, that it may not absorb fat or liquid. Pour the 
soup — strained — into it and set by until the mor- 
row, when it must be carefully skimmed. If you 
have allowed a quart of cold water to each pound of 
meat, you should now have a rich, gelatinous " stock " 
above the residuum at the bottom. Strain off from 
this, day by day, enough to supply soup for your 
family. If the stock is very strong you can dilute it 
for daily use. The stock pot must be kept in the 
cellar or other cold place. Never boil vegetables 
with stock, as they will cause it to become sour. 

Fearing that we may not have made these general 
remarks sufficiently plain, we will repeat them in a 
condensed form. For stock, boil meat, — cooked or 
uncooked, — sloicly for several hours, skimming fre- 
quently. Finally, strain it and set away over night 
in stock jar. In the morning remove the cake of fat 
which will rise to the top. In winter this will be- 
come a firm jelly, which can be used by simply melt- 
ing it, thus obtaining a strong, clear broth, or it can 
be greatly diluted with water; vegetables can be cu"* 
fine and boiled in it and the soup strained through 
colander, or it can be seasoned only and slightly 
t^.^ckened with corn starch. 



THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER V. 19 

BEEF SOUP. 

Take bones and trimmings from a sirloin steak, 
put over fire after breakfast in three quarts water, 
boil steadily until about an hour before dinner, then 
add two onions, one carrot, three common-sized pota- 
toes, all sliced, some parsley cut fine, a red pepper, 
and salt to taste. This makes a delicious soup, suffi- 
cient for three persons. All soups are more palatable 
seasoned with onions and red pepper, using the seeds 
of the latter with care, as they are very strong. 

MUTTON SOUP. 

Boil a nice leg of mutton, and take the water for 
the soup; add two onions chopped fine, potato, half 
a cup of barley, and two large tomatoes; season with 
pepper and salt; boil one hour; stir often (as barley is 
apt to burn), and, before taking from the fire, add 
one tablespoon flour blended with cold water. 

OYSTER SOUP WITH MILK. 

Pour one quart cold water over one quart oysters 
if solid; if not solid, use one pint of water; drain 
through a colander into the soup kettle, and when it 
boils skim; add pepper, then the oysters; season with 
butter and salt, then add one quart rich new milk 
brouo-ht to boiling point in a tin pail set in a pot of 
boiling water, let boil up and serve at once. Or, in- 
stead of adding the milk, place it, boiling hot in 
tureen, pour the soup over it and serve. 



20 THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER V. 

PLAIN OYSTER SOUP. 

Pour a quart oysters in colander, rinse by pouring 
over them pint cold water; put this in porcelain ket- 
tle, add a pint boiling water, let boil, skim thor- 
oughly, season with pepper and piece of butter size 
of large egg; then add oysters, having removed all 
shells, let boil up once ; season with salt and serve. 

MEATLESS TOMATO SOUP. 

One quart tomatoes, one of water; stew till soft; 
add teaspoon soda, allow to effervesce, and add quart 
of boiling milk, salt, butter and pepper to taste; boil 
a few minutes and serve. 

VEAL SOUP. 

To about three pounds of a well broken joint of 
veal, add four quarts water, and set it over to boil; 
prepare one-fourth pound macaroni by boiling it in a 
dish by itself with enough water to cover it; add a 
little butter when the macaroni is tender; strain the 
soup and season to taste with salt and pepper, then 
add the macaroni with the water in which it was 
boiled; onions or celery may be added for flavoring. 

STEWS. 

A vegetable stew is made in the same manner that . 
a vegetable soup is, only that the vegetables are not 
cut fine, hence they remain in shape better, and the 
stew is not strained. 



THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER Y, 21 

PARSNIP STEW. 

This is nice when made by boiling a piece of salt 
pork (about an inch thick and nearly as large as the 
hand) till tender, and then adding potatoes and pars- 
nips. A little milk improves it, also a little thicken- 
ing of flour. Add pepper and more salt if desired. 

ONION STEW. 

The same recipe with two or three small onions 
(sliced thin) substituted for the parsnips is nice, and 
one or two ripe tomatoes added, improves it. 

OYSTERS. 

Under " soups " we gave the way for stewing oys- 
ters. 

FRIED OYSTERS. 

The larger the oysters are the easier it will be to 
handle them and the nicer they will be. The " se- 
lects " are the largest in market. Drain them care- 
fully, remove all bits of shell; sprinkle with salt and 
pepper, and let them stand a few minutes, then roll 
in cracker crumbs and fry; salt and pepper a little 
more. Turn so as to brown on both sides. 

FRIED OYSTERS (No. 2.) 

Dip the oysters in the yolk of eggs, well seasoned 
and beatened, then in cornmeal with a little baking 
powder mixed with it, and fry in hot lard like dough- 



22 THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER V. 

nuts; or if you have a frying basket, place them on 
that and drop it in the hot lard. Test the heat as 
for doughnuts. 

FRIED OYSTERS (No. 3.) 

Dip the oysters into batter made of one cup of 
milk, one egg^ a little salt, and enough flour to make 
a batter. Fry in as little lard as possible. Always 
have spider hot before putting in anything to fry. 
Season with salt and pepper. 

ESCALOPED OYSTERS. 

Cover the bottom of a well buttered pudding dish 
with a layer of bread crumbs, and wet these with 
cream or milk, one-half cup put on spoon by spoon, 
salt and pepper, and add bits of butter; add one 
quart of oysters and liquor, pepper and bits of but- 
ter. Then cover thickly with crumbs and on them 
place more pieces of butter. Place in oven and 
cover — this is very important, as the flavor is thereby 
not allowed to escape — and bake till the juice bub- 
bles up, from half to three-quarters of an hour. Re- 
move cover and brown in upper part of oven for a 
few minutes, not long. Serve in dish in which it 
was baked. 

ESCALOPED OYSTERS (No. 2.) 

Use crushed crackers, not too fine; drain liquor 
from a quart of oysters and carefully remove all bits 



THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER V. 23 

of shell, butter a deep dish or pan, cover the bottom 
with crackers, put in a layer of oysters seasoned with 
salt and pepper and bits of butter in plenty, then a 
layer of crackers, then oysters, and so on until the 
dish is full, finishing with the crackers covered with 
bits of butter; pour over the whole the oyster liquor 
added to one pint of milk, place in a hot oven, bake 
an hour, add one pint of hot water; bake another 
half hour, and, to prevent browning too much, cover 
with a tin or sheet-iron lid. Bread crumbs, or a 
mixture of crackers and bread crumbs may be used 
when more convenient. As the amount of liquor in 
oysters varies, and the proportion of crackers or 
bread crumbs to the oysters also varies, the quantity 
of water must be increased or diminished according 
to judgment and taste. 

BROILED OYSTERS ON THE HALF SHELL. 

Select large shells, clean with a brush, open, sav- 
ing juice; put oysters in boiling water for a few 
minutes, remove and place each oyster in a half 
shell, with juice; place on a gridiron over a brisk 
fire, and when they begin to boil, season with butter, 
salt and pepper (some add a drop of lemon jui-ce). 
Serve on the half-shell. 

CURRIED OYSTERS. 

Put the liquor drained from a quart of oysters into 



24 THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER Y. 

a sauce pan, add a half cup of butter, two table- 
spoons flour, and one of curry powder, well mixed; 
let boil, add oysters and a little salt; boil up once 
and serve. 

OYSTER PICKLES. 

To every quart of liquor add a teaspoon of black 
pepper, a pod of red pepper broken in bits, two 
blades of mace, a teaspoon salt, two dozen cloves, 
and a half pint of best vinegar; add the oysters 
and simmer gently for a few minutes, take out and 
put in small jars; then boil the pickle, skim it, and 
pour over them. Keep them in a dark, cool place, 
and when a jar is opened, use up its contents as 
quickly as possible. Oysters pickled thus will keep 
good four or five weeks. 

A PAN ROAST. 

Free oysters from shells; have spider hot and dry^ 
pour oysters and liquor into spider, enough to cover 
the bottom of it at a time; let it boil up once; turn 
out into hot dish; add butter, salt and pepper, and 
set in oven while you cook some more in like man- 
ner; when all are cooked serve on toast. This is 
very nice indeed. 



THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER V, 25 



CHAPTER IV. 

MEATS. 

To makefresh meat rich and nutritious it should 
be placed in a kettle of boiliiig water, skimmed well 
as soon as it begins to boil again, and placed where 
it will sloicly but constantly boil. The meat should 
be occasionally turned and kept well under the wa- 
ter, and fresh hot water supplied as it evaporates in 
boiling. 

Salt meat should be put on in cold water so that 
it may freshen in cooking. Allow twenty minutes to 
the pound for fresh, and thirty-five for salt meats, 
the time to be modified, of course, by the quality of 
the meat. 

To roast in oven, the preparations are very simple. 
The fire must be bright and the oven hot. If wash- 
ing is necessary, dash over quickly with cold water 
and wipe dry. If meat has been kept a little too 
long, wash in vinegar, wipe dry, and dust with a 
very little flour to absorb the moisture. In the bot- 
tom of the pan lay two or three hard wood sticks, 
which are about an inch thick, and upon these lay 
the meat, with enough water to cover the sticks; re- 
plenishing it as it boils away. When it has been in 
the oven about twenty minutes sprinkle upper side 



26 THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKERY. 

with salt and pepper. While the meat is in the 
oven, keep the fire hot and bright; baste several 
times, and when about half done turn it, always 
keeping the thick part of the meat in the hottest 
part of the oven. In about twenty minutes after it 
has been turned, sprinkle the second side with salt 
and pepper. To prepare the gravy, pour off the fat, 
add water and thicken with flour. 

Fifteen minutes to the pound and fifteen minutes 
longer is the rule for beef and mutton, and twenty 
minutes to the pound and twenty minutes longer for 
pork, veal and lamb 

Before broiling meat, pound the tough parts with 
a hammer, or chop it slightly with the chopping 
knife. Lay it on a hot^ well greased gridiron; do 
not seoson the first side until just before turning it, 
and the second until just before it is removed from 
the gridiron; serve on a Jiot platter, with pieces of 
butter laid about on the top of it. To fry meat 
have the spider hot, and if possible fry it in its 
own fat; if not add grease a little at a time as 
it is necessary. The garnishes of meat are pars- 
ley, slices of lemon, sliced beets, and currant jelly. 
One more word before giving some specific rules. 
Whenever you wish the juice of the meat to be ex- 
tracted, put it on to cook in told water, and when you 
wish it to be retained, in hot water. 



THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER V. 27 

A PLAIN BEEF STEW. 

Put on the stove a rather thick piece of beef with 
little bone and some fat four hours before needed, 
pour on just boiling water enough to cover, cover 
with a close-fitting lid, boil gently, and as the water 
boils away add only just enough from time to time to 
keep from burning, so that when the meat is tender 
the water may all be boiled away, as the fat will 
allow the meat to brown without burning; turn oc- 
casionally, brown evenly over a slow fire, and make 
a gravy by stirring flour and water together and add- 
ing it to the drippings; season with salt an hour be- 
fore it is done. 

BOILED BEEF TONGUE. 

Wash clean, put in the pot with cold water to 
cover it, a cup of salt, and a small pod of red pep- 
per; if the water boils away, add more so as to keep 
the tongue nearly covered until done; boil until it 
can be pierced easily with a fork (about four hours), 
take out, and if needed for present use take off the 
skin and set away to cool; if to be kept some days, 
do not peel until wanted for table. Soak salt tongue 
over night, and cook in same way, omitting the salt. 

FRIED TRIPE. 

Dredge with flour, or dip in egg and cracker 
crumbs, fry in hot butter or other fat, until a deli- 
cate brown on both sides, lay it on a dish, add vine- 



28 THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER Y. 

gar to the gravy, and pour over the tripe (or the 
vinegar may be omitted and the gravy added, or the 
tripe may be served without vinegar or gravy). Or 
make a batter by mixing gradually one cup of flour 
with one of sweet milk, then add an %g^ well beaten 
and a little salt; drain the tripe, dip in batter, and 
fry in hot drippings or lard. Salt pork and pig's feet 
may be cooked by the same rule. In buying tripe 
get the "honey-combed." 

MUTTON. 

Before cooking mutton in any way, skin it; if 
you use a sharp knife the waste will be very slight 
and the meat will not have the strong taste so disa- 
greeable to many. 

BOILED MUTTON WITH CAPER SAUCE. 

Have ready a pot of boiling water, and throw in a 
handful of salt; wash a leg of mutton, skin it, and 
rub salt through it. If it is to be rare, cook about 
two hours; if well done, three hours or longer, ac- 
cording to size. Boil a pint of milk, thicken with 
flour well blended, add butter, salt, pepper and two 
tablespoons of capers, or mint sauce if preferred. 

MUTTON CHOPS. 

Cook these and pork tender loins in the same man- 
ner as veal cutlets. 



THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER V, 29 

BOILED HAM. 

Pour boiling water over it and let stand until cool 
enough to wash, scrape clean (some have a coarse 
hair-brush on purpose for cleaning hams), put in a 
thoroughly cleansed boiler with cold water enough 
to cover; bring to the boiling point and then place 
on the back part of the stove to simmer steadily for 
six or seven hours, or till tender when pierced with a 
fork; be careful to keep water at boiling point, and 
not allow it to go much above it. Turn the ham 
once or twice in the water; when done take up and 
put into a baking-pan to skin; dip the hands in cold 
water, take the skin between the fingers and peel as 
you would an orange; set in a moderate oven, plac- 
ing the lean side of the ham downward. 

FRIED PORKSTEAKS. 

Fry like beefsteaks, with pepper and salt; or 
sprinkle with dry powdered sage if the sausage flavor 
is liked. 

FRIED SALT PORK. 

Cut in rather thin slices, and freshen by letting lie 
an hour or two in cold water or milk and water, roll 
in flour and fry till crisp (if in a hurry, pour boiling 
water on the slices, let stand a few minutes, drain, 
roll in flour and fry as before) ; drain off most of the 
grease from frying-pan, stir in while hot one or two 
tablespoons of flour, about half a pint new milk, a 



30 THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER Y. 

little pepper, and salt if not salt enough already from 
the meat; let boil and pour into gravy dish. This 
makes a nice white gravy vv^hen properly made. 

ROAST PORK. 

Place in pan without water, basting frequently 
with the grease that fries out of it. Allow twenty 
minutes to the pound and twenty minutes longer. 
Hub it thoroughly on both sides with salt and pepper 
and sprinkle with sage before putting in oven. Pour 
off fat and add water to make gravy; thicken care- 
fully with flour. 

VEAL LOAF. 

Take three pounds of leg or loin of veal and 
three-fourths pound salt pork, chopped finely to- 
gether; roll one dozen crackers, put half of them in 
the veal with two eggs, season with pepper and a 
little salt if needed; mix all together and make into 
a solid form ; then take the crackers that are left and 
spread smoothly over the outside ; bake one hour, and 
eat cold. 

FRIED VEAL CUTLETS. 

Roll veal in cracker crumbs, or in a batter made of 
half a pint of milk, one ^^^^-^ a little salt and flour. 
Place in hot spider the bottom of which is covered 
with lard; season well; cook a long time sloicly. 

BAKED STEAK. 

Take one or two pounds of round steak. Make a 



THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER V. 31 

dressing of cracker or bread crumbs, and one Qgg, a 
small piece of butter, salt, pepper and sage; wet up 
with a little milk or water, spread this thickly over a 
piece of round steak (a pound or two), roll the steak 
up and tie it firmly. It should be peppered and 
salted as it lies in the roll; place it in dripping-pan 
with a thin piece of salt pork (half the size of the 
hand) on top of it. Add a little hot water and baste 
frequently. Turn it when the upper side is tender. 
When cold, slice off from the ends; it is nice for tea. 

FRIED LIVER. 

Cut in thin slices; pour boiling water over it and 
right off again; roll in cornmeal and fry in lard. 
Season well. Cook slowly a long time. 

DRIED BEEF. 

Shave it very thin, across the grain; put it (per- 
haps a cupful of it) into a hot spider, with a piece of 
butter the size of an ^gg.> a little pepper and about 
two tablespoons of boiling water. Let it cook nearly 
dry; then add about a pint or perhaps three cups of 
milk; let it simmer in this milk some time; if it comes 
to a boil the milk will occasionally separate and 
curdle. Finally, thicken with cornstarch or flour, 
well blended, until it is creamy; stir constantly; 
have it perfectly free from lumps of flour and, if pos- 
sible, add some cream; a few spoonsfuls improves it 
very much. 



32 THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKERY, 

POTTED BEEF. 

Cook meat (four or five pounds; ragged ends 
will do, but not too fat) slowly all day, remove the 
bones when they fall out, season well with salt and 
pepper, and sage, if desirable ; at the last let it sim- 
mer on top of stove till all the water is cooked out; 
then put in basin or pan and press closely with a 
saucer; leave some weio-ht on it over nio-ht; it 
will then turn out of basin molded and will be nice 
to slice from for tea. 

MEAT CROQUETTES. 

Chop meat and bread separately, half as much 
bread as meat; add to the moistened bread one 
^^^t a- little melted butter, some salt and pepper, 
and the well seasoned meat; mix well and make into 
patties with the hand; dip in beaten ^^^^ and fry. 

HASH. 

Any kind of cold meat will do, but corned-beef is 
the best; chop the m^at and potatoes (cold, whole 
ones) separately, allowing one-third of meat to two- 
thirds of potato; do not chop the latter too fine; 
salt and pepper the hash thoroughly before putting 
on the stove. When the spider is hot drop into it a 
tablespoon of butter, stir it around and add the hash; 
pour on a little boiling water and cover tightly; 
when the water boils out add more if it is not thor- 



THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER Y, 33 

oiighly heated yet; be careful about stirring or the 
potato will mush up and not be so nice. When 
nearly dry add a little milk (a few tablespoons) if 
you like. This will leave the hash moist, and the 
hash will retain its shape. Stir more if you do not 
like it this way; and if you wish it to be dry and 
brown, set it back on the stove and it will become 
so. 

MINCED BEEF AND VEAL. 

Chop the meat when cold, picking out all bits of 
gristle. To a pint of meat allow a large, cup of 
boiling water, a tablespoon of butter, and one of 
flour well blended, a teaspoonful of salt, and some 
pepper. Cook five minutes and serve on toast. 

MEAT PIE. 

A nice way to use up the remnants of a roast is to 
line a baking pan with baking powder biscuit crust, 
and lay in slices of meat; filling up with gravy and 
covering Avith another crust; cut a hole in the cen- 
ter of top crust and bake half or three-quarters of an 
hour. Serve with gravy. 



34 THE G OLDEN MEAN IN CO OKER Y. 

CHAPTER V. 
Fish — Poultry — G-ame. 

FISH. 

As soon as possible after fish are caught remove 
the scales by scraping with a knife (these maj be 
loosened l^ pouring on hot water) and clean thor- 
oughly; then sprinkle with salt and let them lie over 
niglit or for a few hours if possible. Salt fish may be 
soaked over night, or for a few hours in clear, cold 
water; laying the skin side up will allow the salt to 
settle to the bottom of the pan more readily. 

One of the most essential thino-s in servino- fish is 
to have everything hot. 

The blue fish is excellent boiled or baked with a 
stuffing of bread, butter and onions. Sea-bass are 
boiled with ^^^^ sauce, and garnished with parsley. 
Salmon are baked or boiled, and smelts are cooked 
by dropping into boiling fat. The sheep's-head, 
which requires most cooking of all fish, is always 
stufEed and baked. 

Nearly all the larger fresh fish are boiled, the me- 
dium sized are baked or broiled and the small are 
fried. The very large ones are cut up and sold in 
pieces of convenient size. The method of cooking 
which retains most nourishment is broiling, baking is 



THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER Y. 35 

next best, and boiling poorest of all. Steaming is 

better than boilinor. 
o 

In cookinor fish care must be taken not to use the 

o 

same knives or spoons in the preparation of it and 
other food, or the latter will be tainted with the fishy 
flavor 

In boiling fish allow five to ten minutes to the 
pound, according to thickness, after putting into the 
boiling water. To test, pass a knife along a bone, 
and if done the fish will separate easily. 

BAKED FISH. 

Clean, rinse, and wipe dry a white fish, or any fish 
weighing three or four pounds, rub the fish inside 
and out with salt and pepper, fill with a dressng 
made like that for poultry, but drier; sew it up and 
put in a hot pan, with some drippings and a lump of 
butter, dredge with flour, and lay over the fish a few 
thin slices of salt pork or bits of butter, and bake an 
hour and a half, basting occasionally. 

BOILED CODFISH. 

Soak over night, put in a pan of cold water, and 
simmer two or three hours. Serve with drawn but- 
ter, with hard boiled eggs sliced on it. Codfish is 
also excellent broiled. After soaking sufficiently, 
grease the bars of the gridiron, broil and serve with 
bits of butter dropped over it. This is a nice relish 
for tea. 



36 THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKERY. 

BOILED FRESH COD. 

Put the fish in a kettle in boiling water with some 
salt, let simmer till done; place a folded napkin on 
a dish, turn fish upon it, and serve with drawn butter, 
oyster or ^^'g sauce. 

CODFISH GRAVY. 

Soak pieces of codfish several hours in cold water, 
or wash thoroughly, pick fine, and place in 
spider with cold water; boil a few minutes, 
pour off water and add fresh, boil again (if not very 
salt the second boiling is not necessary) and drain off 
as before; then add plenty of sweet milk, and a lit- 
tle cream if possible, a good sized piece of butter, 
and a thickening made of a little flour or corn- 
starch mixed with cold milk until smooth like 
cream. Just before taking from the fire drop in an 
'^^^t stirring very briskly, 

FRIED FISH. 

Clean thoroughly, cut off the head, and, if large, 
cut out the backbone, and slice the body cross- 
wise into five or six pieces; dip in Indian meal or 
wheat flour, or in a beaten ^^^^i and then in bread 
crumbs [trout and perch should never be dipped in 
meal], put into a thick-bottomed spider, skin side 
uppermost, with hot lard or drippings. If the fat is 
very hot, the fish will not absorb it, and it will be deli- 



THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER V. 37 

catelj cooked. When brown on one side, turn and 
brown on the other. Slices of large fish may be 
cooked in the same way. Serve with tomato sauce 
or slices of lemon. 

BROILED FISH. 

Clean, split down the back, and let stand in salted 
water for several hours; wipe dry, and place on a 
well greased gridiron over hot coals, sprinkling, with 
salt and pepper. Put flesh side down at first, and 
when nicely browned, turn carefully on the other. 
Cook for twenty or thirty minutes, or until nicely 
browned on both sides. 

CREAMED MACKEREL. 

Wash a salt mackerel, and soak it all night in cold 
water. In the morning dry thoroughly with a clean 
towel, put into a bread pan of boiling water, and 
cook steadily half an hour. Drain when done, and 
transfer to a hot dish. Pour over it a sauce made by 
stirring into a cupful of boiling water a heaping 
teaspoonful of cornstarch, two teaspoonfuls of but- 
ter, one of vinegar and a little pepper. Instead of 
the vinegar you can put in a teaspoonful of green 
pickle minced fine. Stir over the fire until smooth 
and as thick as custard, when add minced parsley, if 
convenient. Pour upon the fish; cover, and let it 
stand five minutes in a warm place. 



38 THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER K 

CANNED SALMON. 

The California canned salmon is nice served cold 
with any of the fish sauces. For a breakfast dish, it 
may be heated, seasoned with salt and pepper, and 
served on buttered toast, with thickened milk poured 
over it. 

BROILED MACKEREL. 

Wash and soak over night ; in the morning dry 
thoroughly with a clean towel; lay on a well greased 
hot gridiron; put flesh side down at first; when nicely 
browned, turn carefully and brown on the other side. 
Lay on hot platter, put plenty of butter and pepper 
on it and serve at once, while hot. 

CODFISH BALLS. 

Mix thoroughly one cupful of chopped, cooked 
fish, and three cupfuls of mashed potatoes; add a lit- 
tle cream or milk and a little butter; roll into flat, 
small balls about one-half inch thick. Fry a good 
brown in hot lard. 

CREAM-BAKED TROUT. 

Clean the trout; put in pepper and salt and close 
them. Place the fish in pan with fresh cream enough 
to cover the fins; bake fifteen minutes. 

POULTRY. 

To dress mid cut up afoicl^ scald well by dipping 
in and out of a pail of boiling water; place it on a 



THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER K 39 

board with the head toward you; pull the feathers 
away from you, which Avill be in the direction they 
naturally lie (if pulled in a contrary direction the 
skin is likely to be torn); be careful to remove all 
pin-feathers with a knife or pair of tweezers. Singe 
over burning paper. To draw, cut a slit in the neck, 
take out the windpipe and crop, cut off the wings 
and legs at the joint which unites them to the body, 
separate the first joint of the leg from the second, 
cut off the oil-bag, make a slit horizontally under 
the tail, and remove the entrails. Break the joint 
in the back and cut into two pieces, very carefully re- 
move the gall-bag from the liver, and clean the gizzard 
by making an incision through the thick part and first 
lining, peeling off the fleshy part, leaving the inside 
whole and ball-shaped; open the gizzard, pour out 
contents, peel off inner lining, and wash 
thoroughly. After washing in second water, the 
chicken is ready to be cooked. When young 
chickens are to be baked, with a sharp knife cut 
open the back at the side of the back-bone, press 
apart, and clean as above directed, and place in 
dripping-pan, skin side up. 

ROAST CHICKEN. 

Pick, singe and draw as given in the foregoing 
general remarks, but leave the chicken whole with 
the exception of the slits made in the neck and the 



40 THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER V. 

one made horizontally under the tail. The liver, 
heart and gizzard can be used for the gravy, or 
they can be baked in the dripping-pan; wash the 
fowl thoroughly in col-d water twice, drain, and it 
is ready to be stuffed, skewered, and placed to roast. 
Stuff the breast first, but not too full or it will 
burst in cooking; stuff the body rather fuller than 
the breist, sew up both openings with strong thread, 
and sew the skin of the neck over upon the back 
or down upon the breast (these threads must be 
carefully removed before sending to the table). 
Lay the points of the wings under the back, and 
fasten in that position with a skewer run through 
both wings and held in place witb a twine; press the 
legs as closely towards the breast and side-bones as 
possible, and fasten with a skewer run through the 
body and both thighs, push a short skewer through 
above the tail, and tie the ends of the legs down with 
a twine close upon the skewer (or if skewers are not 
used, tie well in shape with twine); rub over thor- 
oughly with salt and pepper. Cover the bottom of 
the pan with boiling water add a piece of butter 
and lay in the chicken well seasoned. Baste often. 
Allow from an hour to an hour and a half for its 
roasting. If the giblets are used for the gravy, 
chop them fine after they have been cooked in water. 
To make the gravy, pour boiling water in dripping- 
pan when the chicken is done and thicken with flour. 



THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER Y. 41 
DRESSING FOR POULTRY. 

One pint of bread crumbs, into which mix one tea- 
spoonful each of pepper, salt and sage; pou-r on a 
very little boiling water; add a large lump of butter 
and one well-beaten ^Q^^' 

ROAST TURKEY. 

Prepare and stuff the same as jou do for roast 
chicken; lay a thin piece of salt pork across the 
breast and tie in place with twine; sprinkle with salt 
and pepper and place in oven not quite as hot as for 
roasting meats (if the fire is very hot, lay a piece 
of brown paper, well greased, over the fowl, to 
prevent scorching); baste often (once in ten min- 
utes) watching the turkey as it begins to brown, 
very carefully, and turning it occasionally to expose 
all parts alike to the heat; it should be moist and 
tender, not in the leas* scorched, blistered or shriv- 
eled, but a golden brown all over. For the first 
two-thirds of the time required for cooking (the rule 
is twenty minutes to the pound and twenty minutes 
longer) the basting should keep the surface moist- 
ened so that it will no crisp at all, meantime the 
oven should be kept as close as possible. In turning 
the pan, do it as quickly as possible. In the last third 
of the time allowed for cooking, withdraw the pan 
partly from the oven (resting the end on a block of 
wood or a plain stool of the proper height kept for 



42 THE G OLDEN MEAN IN CO OKER V. 

the purpose) and dredge the breast, upper portion 
and sides thoroughly, by sifting flour over the fowl 
from a fine sifter, return pan to oven, and let remain 
until the flour is well browned, then baste freely with 
drippings from the pan, and flour again, repeating 
the flouring and browning, and allowing the crust to 
grow crisper each time; there will probably be time 
to repeat the process three or four times before fin- 
ishing. Take care not to wash off the flour by bast- 
ing; give it time to brown on thoroughly, and do not 
take out of oven until all the flour of last dredmnor 
is thoroughly browned. If it is necessary to turn the 
turkey in the pan, use a towel, and never stick it 
with a fork, to allow the juice to escape. 

OYSTER DRESSING FOR TURKEY. 

Take a small loaf of stale bread, cut off crust and 
soften by placing in a pan, pouring on boiling water, 
draining off immediately and covering closely; crum- 
ble bread fine, add one-fourth cup of butter, and a 
teaspoon each of salt and pepper, or enough to sea- 
son rather highly; drain off liquor from a quart of 
oysters, bring to a boil, skim and pour over the 
bread-crumbs, adding the soaked crusts and one or 
two eggs; mix all thoroughly with the hands; lastly, 
add the oysters, being careful not to break them ; or 
first put in a spoonful of dressing, and then three or 
four oysters, and so on until the turkey is filled; stuff 
the breast first. 



THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER Y. 43 
STEAMED CHICKEN. 

Rub the chicken with pepper and a half teaspoon 
of salt, place in steamer in a kettle that will keep 
it as near the water as possible, cover, and steam 
an hour and a half; when done keep hot while 
dressing is prepared, then cut them up, arrange on 
the platter, and serve with the dressing over them. 
The dressing is made as follows: Boil one pint of 
gravy from the kettle without the fat, add cayenne 
pepper and half a teaspoon salt stir six tablespoons 
of flour into a quarter pint of cream until smooth, 
and add to the gravy. Cornstarch may be used in- 
stead of the flour, and some add nutmeg or celery 
salt. 

PICKLED CHICKEN. 

Boil four chickens till tender enough for meat to 
fall from bones; put meat in a stone jar, and pour 
over it three pints of cold vinegar, and a pint and a 
half of the water in which the chickens were boiled; 
add spices if preferred, and it will be ready for use 
in two days. 

PRESSED CHICKEN. 

Take one or two chickens, boil in a small quantity 
of water with a little salt, and when thoroughly done 
take all the meat from the bones, removing the skin, 
and keeping the light meat separate from the dark; 
chop and season to taste with salt and pepper. If a 
meat presser is at hand take it, or any other mold, 



44 THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER V. 

such as a crock or pan, will do; put in a layer of light 
and a layer of dark meat till all is used, add the 
liquor it was boiled in, which should be about one 
teacupful, and put on a heavy weight; when cold cut 
in slices. Many chop all the meat together, add one 
pounded cracker to the liquor it was boiled in, and 
mix all thoroughly before putting in the mold; either 
way is nice. Boned turkey can be prepared in the 
same way, slicing instead of chopping. 

FEICASSEED CHICKEN. 

Put chicken in sauce-pan with barely enough wa- 
ter to cover, season, and stew gently until tender; 
have a frying-pan prepared with a few slices of salt 
pork until it is a fine, rich brown ; take chicken and 
bits of pork from the pan, pour in the broth, thicken 
with brown flour, mixed smooth with a little water, 
and season with pepper; now put chicken and pork 
back into gravy, let simmer a few minutes, and serve 
very hot. 

BROILED CHICKEN. 

Cut chicken open on the back, lay on the meat- 
board and pound until it will lie flat, lay on gridiron, 
place over a bed of coals, season and broil until a nice 
brown, but do not burn. It will take twenty or thirty 
minutes to cook thoroughly, and it will cook much 
better to cover with a pie-tin held down with a weight 
so that all parts of the chicken may lie close to the 



THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKERY. 45 

gridiron. While the chicken is broiling, put the 
liver, gizzard and heart in a stew-pan and boil in a 
pint of water until tender, chop fine and add flour, 
butter, pepper, salt, and stir a cup of sweet cream 
to the water into which they were boiled; when the 
chicken is done, dip it in this gravy while hot, lay it 
back on the gridiron a minute, put it in the gravy and 
let boil for a half minute, and send 10 the table hot. 

CHICKEN PIE. 

Cut up two young chickens, place in hot water 
enough to cover, (as it boils away add more so as to 
have enough for the pie and for the gravy to serve 
with it); boil until tender; line the sides of a four or 
six quart pan with a rich baking-powder or soda- 
biscuit dough quarter of an inch thick, put in part of 
the. chicken, season with salt, pepper and butter, lay 
in a few thin strips or squares of dough, add the rest 
of chicken and season as before; season liquor in 
which the chickens were boiled, with butter, salt and 
pepper.5 add a part of it to the pie, cover with a crust 
a quarter of an inch thick, with a hole in the center 
the size of a tea-cup. Keep adding the chicken- 
liquor as needed, since the fault of most chicken pies 
is that they are too dry. There can scarcely be too 
much gravy. Bake one hour in a moderate oven. 

To make a gravy, add to the liquor left in pot (if 
not enough add -hot water) a tablespoon of butter 



46 THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER Y. 

mixed to a paste with flour, and seasoned with 
pepper and salt. This should be stirred, a liltle at a 
time, into the liquor; let boil up once and serve. 

FKIED SPRING CHICKEN. 

Put spider on the stove with about half table- 
spoon each of lard and butter; when hot lay in 
chicken and sprinkle over with flour, salt and pepper, 
place lid on spider, and cook over a moderate fire; 
when a light brown, turn the chicken and sprinkle 
flour, salt and pepper over the top as at first; if nec- 
essary add more lard and butter, and cook slowly 
until done; make gravy just the same as for baked 
ohicken. As a general rule half an hour is long 
enough to fry spring chicken. To make rich and 
nice gravy without cream, take the yelk of an ^^^^i 
beat up light, strain and stir slowly into the gravy 
^fter the flour and milk have been stirred in and 
thoroughly cooked; as soon as it boils up, the gravy 
is done and should be removed from the stove. 

STEWED CHICKEN WITH BISCUIT. 

Prepare according to general directions as given 
under " Poultry," and boil till tender. While it is 
cooking, season with salt and pepper; bake baking- 
powder biscuit as given in the second chapter; when 
slightly cool, break them open and lay on a platter; 
then take up the chicken and place it on them, and 
when the gravy is thickened, pour it over all. 



THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER V. 47 

GAME. 

White-meated game should be cooked to well- 
done; dark-meated game rare. The decided flavor 
of wild animals recommends them to invalids or others 
who are satiated with ordinary food. Keeping game 
renders it more tender, and brings out the flavor. 
When birds have become tainted, pick clean as soon 
as possible and immerse in new milk for twenty-four 
hours, when they will be quite sweet and fit for 
cooking. 

Birds should be carefully dry-picked (removing 
all feathers that come off easily), plunged in a pan of 
boiling water and skinned, drawn, wiped clean, and 
all shot removed. Game should not be washed, un- 
less absolutely necessary for cleanliness. With care 
in dressing, wiping will render them perfectly clean. 
If necessary to wash, do it quickly and use as little 
water as possible. The more plainly all kinds of 
game are cooked, the better they retain their fine 
flavor. They require a brisker fire than poultry, but 
take less time to cook. Their color, when done, 
should be a fine yellowish brown. Serve on toast. 

Broiling is a favorite method of cooking game, and 
all birds are exceedingly nice roasted. To broil, 
split down the back, open and flatten the breast by 
covering with a cloth and pounding, season with 
pepper, and lay the inside first upon the gridiron; 
turn as browned, and when almost done take off, 



48 THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER Y. 

place on a platter, sprinkle with salt and return to 
the gridiron. When done, place in a hot dish, 
butter both sides well, and serve at once. The time 
required is usually about tw^enty minutes. 

To roast, season with salt and pepper, place a 
lump of butter inside, truss, skewer, and place in 
oven. The flavor is best preserved without stuffing, 
but a plain bread-dressing, with a piece of salt pork 
or ham skewered on the breast, is very nice. A 
delicate way of dressing is to place an oyster dipped 
in the well-beaten yelk of an %q^^^ or in melted butter, 
and then rolled in bread crumbs, inside each bird. 
Allow thirty minutes to roast or longer if stuffed. 
Wild ducks, pheasants and grouse are always best 
roasted. To lard game, tie a thin slice of salt pork 
on the breast. 

Pigeons should be cooked a long time, as they are 
usually quite lean and tough, and they are better to 
lie in salt water half an hour, or to be parboiled in 
it for a few minutes. They are nice roasted or made 
into a pie. 

If the " wild flavor " of the larger birds, such as 
pheasants, prairie chickens, etc., is disliked, they may 
be soaked over night in salt water; or two or three 
hours in soda and water, or parboiled with an onion 
or two in the water, and then cooked as desired; 
or pare a fresh lemon without breaking the thin, 
white inside skin, put inside the game for a day or 



THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER V. 49 

two, renewing the lemon every twelve hours. This 
will absorb unpleasant flavors from almost all meat 
and game. Some lay slices of onion over game 
while cooking, and remove before serving. In pre- 
paring fat wild ducks for invalids, it is a good plan 
to remove the skin, and keep a (Jay or two before 
cooking. Squirrels should be carefully skinned and 
laid in salt water a short time before cooking; if old, 
parboil. They are delicious broiled, and are excel- 
lent cooked in any way with thin slices of bacon. 
Venison, is considered a " savory dish." The haunch, 
neck, shoulder and saddle should be roasted; roast 
or broil the breast, and fry or broil the steaks 
with slices of salt pork. Venison requires more time 
for cooking than beefsteak. The hams are excellent 
pickled, smoked and dried, but they will not keep so 
long as other smoked meats. 

The garnishes for game are fresh or preserved bar- 
berries, currant jelly, sliced oranges, and apple sauce. 

FRIED WOODCOCK. 

Dress, wipe clean, tie the legs, skin the head and 
neck, turn the beak under the wing and tie it; tie a 
piece of bacon over it, and immerse in hot fat for two 
or three minutes. Serve on toast. 

Another favorite way is to split them through the 
back and broil, basting with butter, and serving on 
toast. They may also be roasted whole before the 
fire for fifteen or twenty minutes. 



50 THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER K 

ROAST DUCK. 

Ducks are dressed and stuffed in the same manner 
as other fowls. Youncr ducks should roast from 
twenty-five to thirty minutes; full-grown, for an 
hour or more with frequent basting. Some prefer 
them underdone, served very hot, but thorough cook- 
ing will prove more generally palatable. Serve with 
currant jelly, apple sauce, and green peas. If old, 
parboil before roasting. 

Place the remains of a cold roast duck in a stew- 
pan with a pint of gravy and a little sage, cover 
closely, and let it simmer for half an hour; add a 
pint of boiled green peas, stew a few minutes, re- 
move to a dish, and pour over it the gravy and peas. 

RABBITS. 

Rabbits, which are in the best condition in mid- 
winter, may be fricasseed like chicken in white or 
brown sauce. To make a pie, first stew till tender, 
and make like chicken-pie. To roast, stuff with a 
dressing made of bread-crumbs, chopped salt pork, 
thyme, onion, and pepper and salt, sew up, rub over 
with a little butter, or pin on it a few slices of salt 
pork, add a little water in the pan, and baste often. 
Serve with currant jelly. They are also nice stewed. 

SNIPE. 

Snipe are best roasted with a piece of pork tied to 
the breast, or they may be stuffed and baked. 



THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER V. 51 
PRAIRIE CHICKENS. 

Wash thoroughly, using some soda in the water, 
rinse and dry, fdl with dressing, sew up with cotton 
thread, and tie down the legs and wings; place in a 
steamer over hot water till done, remove to dripping- 
pan, cover with butter, sprinkle with salt and pepper, 
dredge with flour, place in the oven and baste with 
the melted butter until a nice brown; serve with 
■either apple-sauce, cranberries, or currant jelly. 

BROILED QUAIL. 

Split through the back and broil over a hot fire, 
basting frequently with butter. When done place a 
piece of butter on each piece, and set in oven a few 
moments to brown. Serve on pieces of toast with 
currant jelly. Plovers are cooked in the same way. 
Pigeons should be first parboiled and then broiled. 

ROAST GOOSE. 

The goose should not be more than eight months 
old, and the fatter the more tender and juicy the 
meat. A " green " goose (four months old) is the 
choicest. Kill at least twenty-four hours before 
cooking; cut the neck close to the back, beat the 
breast-bone flat with a rolling-pin, tie the wings and 
legs securely, and stuff with the following mixture: 
three pints bread crumbs, six ounces butter or part 
butter and part salt pork, two chopped onions, one 
teaspoon each of sage, black pepper and salt. Do 



52 ' THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER Y. 

not stuff very full, and stitch openings firmly to- 
gether to keep flavor in and fat out. If the goose is 
not fat, lard it with salt pork, or tie a slice on the 
breast. Place in a baking-pan with a little water, 
and baste frequently with salt and water (some add 
onion and some vinegar), turning often so that the 
sides and back may all be nicely browned. When 
nearly done baste with butter and a little flour. 
Bake two hours, or more if old; when done take 
from the pan, pour off the fat, and to the brown 
gravy left add the chopped giblets which have previ- 
ously been stewed till tender, together with the 
water they were boiled in; thicken with a little flour 
and butter rubbed together, bring to a boil, and 
serve with currant jelly. Apple sauce and onion 
sauce are proper accompaniments to roast goose. 



CHAPTER VI. 
Catsups — Sauces foe Meats and Salads. 

tomato catsup. 
Slice one-half bushel of ripe tomatoes, adding one- 
half pint of salt as you put them in the cooking ket- 
tle (a porcelain kettle is preferable), cook till tender, 
then strain through a sieve and boil slowly till the 



THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER Y. 53 

bulk is reduced half. Add spices the last thing; one 
ounce of black pepper, one of cloves, and a little red 
pepper. To one quart of catsup, when done, add 
two tablespoons of vinegar. Bottle and seal by 
pouring hot sealing wax over the cork. The wax 
acts better if a small lump of butter or lard is added 
to it while it is melting. 

CUCUMBER CATSUP. 

Three dozen cucumbers and eighteen onions peeled 
and chopped very fine; sprinkle over them three- 
fourths pint table salt, put the whole in a sieve, and 
let drain well over night; add a teacup mustard seed, 
half teacup ground black pepper; mix well, and 
cover with good cider vinegar. 

CURRANT CATSUP. 

Four pounds nice fully-ripe currants, and one and 
a half pounds sugar, tablespoon ground cinnamon, a 
teaspoon each of salt, ground cloves and pepper, pint 
vinegar; stew currants and sugar until quite thick, 
add other ingredients, and bottle for use. 

CHILI SAUCE. 

Eighteen ripe tomatoes, two and one-half cups of 
vinegar, ten onions, three green peppers, two tea- 
spoons each of salt, cinnnmon, cloves and allspice, 
and one cup of sugar; cook as thick as for tomato 
catsup and do not strain. 



54 THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER Y. 

MUSTARD SAUCE. 

One tablespoon of ground mustard, five of vinegar, 
one well-beaten ^^^-^ pepper and salt and butter the 
size of a small hen's ^^^\ cook in little tin pail; set 
in pan of boiling water till it thickens; stir often. 

ONION SAUCE. 

Boil three or four white onions till tender; mince 
fine; boil half pint of milk, add butter half the size 
of an ^^^1 salt and pepper to taste, and stir in 
minced onion and a tablespoon of flour which has 
been moistened with milk. 

MINT SAUCE 

Take fresh, young mint, strip leaves from stems, 
wash, drain on a sieve, or dry them on a cloth; chop 
very fine, put in a sauce-tureen, and to three heaped 
tablespoons mint add two of pounded sugar; let re- 
main a few minutes well mixed together, and pour 
over it gradually six tablespoons of good vinegar. 
If members of the family like the flavor, but not the 
substance of the mint, the sauce may be strained 
after it has stood for two or three hours, pressing it 
well to extract all the flavor. It is better to make 
the sauce an hour or two before dinner, so that the 
vinegar may be impregnated with the mint. The 
addition of three or four tablespoons of the liquor 
from the boiling lamb is an improvement. 



THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER V. 55 

LEMON SAUCE. 

Cut three slices of lemon into very small dice, and 
put them into drawn butter; let it come just to boil- 
ing point, and pour over boiled fowls. 

CAPER BUTTER. 

Chop one tablespoon of capers very fine, rub 
through a sieve with a wooden spoon, and mix them 
with a salt-spoon of salt, quarter of a salt-spoon of 
pepper, and one ounce of cold butter. Put a layer 
of this butter on a dish, and serve fish on it. 

CREAM SAUCE. 

Heat one tablespoon butter in a spider, add a tea- 
spoon flour, and stir until perfectly smooth, then add 
gradually one cup of cold milk, let boil up once, sea- 
son to taste with salt and pepper, and serve. This is 
very nice for vegetables, omelets, fish, or sweeit 
breads. 

CAPER SAUCE. 

To a pint of drawn butter add three tablespoons of 
capers. Serve with boiled or roast mutton, 

BREAD SAUCE. 

Place a sliced onion and six pepper-corns in half a 
pint of milk over boiling water, until the onion is 
perfectly soft; pour it on half a pint of bread crumbs 
without crust, and leave it covered for an hour; beat 
it smooth, add a pinch of salt, and two tablespoons of 



56 THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER Y. 

butter rubbed in a little flour; add enough sweet 
cream or milk to make it the proper consistency, and 
boil a few minutes. It must be thin enough to pour. 

CURRY POWDER. 

An ounce of ginger, one of mustard, one of pep- 
per, three of coriander seed, three of turmeric, one- 
half ounce cardamon, quarter ounce cayenne pepper, 
quarter ounce cumin seed; pound all fine, sift and 
cork tight. One teaspoon of powder is sufficient to 
season anything. This is nice for boiled meats and 
stews. 

CRANBERRY SAUCE. 

Wash, and remove all defective berries; to every 
pound of fruit add three-quarters of a pound of 
sugar and a half a pint of boiling water ; cook slowly 
till the berries are tender and the juice is like jelly. 
For strained sauce, stew one and a half pounds of 
fruit in one pint of water till tender, then strain 
through a sieve and add three-quarters of a pound of 
sugar. Serve with roast turkey or game. 

DRAWN BUTTER. 

Rub a small cup of butter into half a tablespoon 
flour, beating it to a cream, adding, if needed, a little 
salt; pour on it half a pint boiling water, stirring it 
fast, and taking care not to let it quite boil, as boil- 
ing makes it oily and unfit for use. The boiling 
may be prevented by placing the sauce-pan contain- 



THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER Y. 57 

ing it in a larger one of boiling water, covering and 
shaking frequently until it reaches the boiling point. 
A great variety of sauces which are excellent to eat 
with fish, poultry, or boiled meats, can be made by 
adding different herbs, such as parsley, mint, or 
sweet marjoram, to drawn butter. First throw them 
into boiling water, cut fine, and they are ready to be 
added, when serve immediately, with two hard-boiled 
eggs chopped fine. This makes a nice sauce to serve 
with baked fish. The chopped inside of a lemon 
with the seeds out, to which the chicken liver has 
been added, makes a good sauce for boiled chicken. 

CHICKEN SALAD. 

Chop fine one chicken cooked tender, one head 
cabbage, and five cold hard-boiled eggs; season with 
salt, pepper and mustard to taste; warm one pint 
vinegar, add half a teacup butter, stir until melted, 
pour hot over the mixture, stir thoroughly, and set 
away to cool. 

PLAIN COLD SLAW. 

Slice cabbage very fine, season with salt, pepper, 
and a little sugar; pour over vinegar and mix thor- 
oughly. 

COLD SLAW. 

A white, hard head of cabbage cut in halves and 
laid in water, then cut very fine. Boil from half to 
a pint of vinegar, stir into it the yelk of one well 
beaten Q^o:^^ and a piece of butter the size of a hen's 



58 THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKERY. 

^§"^5 P^PP^r ^^^^ ^2Xt. Pour this hot over the cab- 
bage a short time before you wish to serve it. 

TOMATO SALAD. 

Pare and slice the tomatoes, and put into a salad- 
bowl. Make a dressing of one saltspoonful each of 
salt, pepper, sugar, and made mustard, worked into 
a paste, with two tablespoonfuls of oil; then beat 
into it gradually four tablespoonfuls of vinegar. Add 
the beaten yelk of one raw ^o^^^ and pour over the 
tomatoes. Set on ice until wanted. 

BEET SALAD. 

Boil half a dozen sweet beets until tender; scrape 
off the skins, and slice round. While still warm, 
pour over them a dressing made of one tablespoonful 
of oil, two of vinegar, a teaspoonful of sugar, half a 
teaspoonful each of mustard, pepper, and salt. Work 
the oil well into these, beat light, and add the vine- 
gar gradually. Cover the beets, and set away where 
the salad will get cold quickly. You can keep it 
two or three days. 

CELERY SALAD. 

Pick out the crisp stalks, wash and scrape, lay in 
very cold water until you are ready to send it to the 
table, then cut into short pieces, arrange in a bowl, 
and pour over it a seasoning made in the same pro- 
portions as that for beet salad. 



THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER Y. 59 

LETTUCE SALAD. 

Take the yelks of three hard-boiled eggs, add salt 
and mustard to taste; mash it fine; make a paste by 
adding a dessert-spoon of olive oil or melted butter 
(use butter always when it is difficult to g^et fresh 
oil); mix thoroughly, and then dilute by adding 
gradually a teacup of vinegar, and pour over the 
lettuce. Garnish by slicing another egg and laying 
over the lettuce. This is sufficient for a moderate 
sized dish of lettuce. 

LOBSTER SALAD. 

Put a large lobster over the fire in boiling water 
slightly salted; boil rapidly for about twenty min- 
utes; when done it will be of a bright red color, and 
should be removed, as, if boiled too long, it will be 
tough; when cold, crack the claws, after first dis- 
jointing, twist off the head (which is used in garnish- 
ing) split the body in two lengthwise, pick out the 
meat in bits not too fine, saving the coral separate; 
cut up a large head of lettuce slightly, and place on 
a dish over which lay the lobster, putting the coral 
around the outside. For dressing, take the yelks of 
three eggs, beat well, add four tablespoons salad oil, 
dropping it in very slowly, beating all the time ; then 
add a little salt, cayenne pepper, half a teaspoon 
mixed mustard, and two tablespoons vinegar. Pour 
this over the lobster, just before sending to table. 



6o THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKERY. 

CREAM DRESSING FOR COLD SLAW. 

Two tablespoons whipped sweet cream, two of 
sugar, and four of vinegar; beat well and pour over 
cabbage, previously cut very fine and seasoned with 
salt. 



CHAPTER VII. 



Vegetables and Vegetable Dressings — Beans- 
Eggs. 

vegetables. 

The proportion of salt in cooking vegetables is a 
heaping tablespoon of salt to every gallon of water. 
When water boils, put in your vegetables, and press 
them down with a wooden spoon. Take out when 
tender, as vegetables are spoiled by being either 
under or overdone. 

ASPARAGUS. 

Wash clean; cut off the white part, as it will not 
cook tender, put into slightly salted, boiling water; 
boil five minutes; pour off water and add more boil- 
ing water; boil till tender; season with butter, salt 
and pepper. When tender add a cup of milk and 
thicken slightly with flour or cornstarch. Pour over 
toast, or not, as you like. 



THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER Y. 6i 

BEETS WITH A DRESSII^G. 

Get the red blood beets, wash carefully and boil 
till tender in salted water; it will require from two 
to five hours; when done, strip off the skin, slice up 
and pour over them a dressing made of one cup of 
boiling water, one of vinegar, a cupful — more or 
less — of sugar, a piece of butter the size of a large 
hen's ^^^-t and a little salt; thicken with cornstarch 
until it is as thick as gravy; move the slices of beets 
about till the red juice escapes and colors the dress- 
ing. 

PLAIN BEETS. 

Cook as above, but slice and season highly with 
butter, salt and pepper, and vinegar or not, as you 
prefer. 

Those slices that are left over are nicely pickled 
by pouring hot water over them. 

BUTTER BEANS. 

With a knife cut off the ends Of pods and strings 
from both sides, being very careful to remove every 
shred; cut every bean lengthwise, in two or three 
strips, and leave them for half an hour in cold 
water. Much more than cover them with boiling 
water; boil till perfectly tender. It is well to allow 
three hours for boiling. When tender add milk, a 
large piece of butter, some salt and pepper, and 
thicken slightly with flour. So many make hard 



62 THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER Y. 

work of blending flour and water that we will ex- 
plain how we do it easily: Take but little water at 
first; stir it smooth and then add sufficient water to 
thin it; have it perfectly free from lumps, and stir 
whatever you are thickening while pouring it in. 

BEET GREENS. 

Wash young beets very clean, cut ofE tips of 
leaves, looking over carefully to see that no bugs or 
worms remain, but do not separate roots from leaves, 
fill dinner-pot half full of salted boiling water, add 
beets, boil from half to three-quarters of an hour; 
take out and drain in colander, pressing down with a 
large spoon, so as to get out all the water. Dish and 
dress with butter, pepper, and salt if needed. Serve 
hot with vinegar. 

BOILED CORN. 

Put the well cleaned ears in salted boiling water, 
boil an hour, or boil in the husk for the same time, 
remove husks and serve immediately. Corn thor- 
oughly cooked is a wholesome dish. 

STEWED CORN. 

Shave corn ofE the ear, being careful not to cut 
into the cob; to three pints corn add three table- 
spoons butter, pepper and salt, and just enough wa- 
ter to cover; place in a spider, cover and cook rather 



THE G OLDEN MEAN IN CO OKER V. 63 

slowly with not too hot a fire, from half to three- 
quarters of an hour; stir with a spoon often, and if 
necessary add more water, for the corn must not 
brown; if desired, a few moments before it is done, 
add half cup sweet cream thickened with a little, 
flour in water. 

CAULIFLOWER. 

Break into small pieces; wash well and boil till 
tender; then add milk, butter, salt and pepper and 
thicken slightly. 

CREAMED CABBAGE. 

Chop as for cold slaw and stew in a covered sauce- 
pan till tender; drain it, return to sauce-pan, add a 
gill or more of rich cream, a large piece of butter, 
pepper and salt to taste; let simmer two or three 
minutes, then serve. Milk may be used by adding 
a little more butter; or have a deep spider hot, put 
in sliced cabbage, pour quickly over it a pint of 
boiling water, cover close and cook for ten minutes, 
then pour off water and add a half pint of rich milk. 
When the milk boils, stir in a teaspoon of flour 
moistened with a little milk, season, cook a moment, 
serve. 

EGG PLANT. 

Peel and cut in slices the purple kind, sprinkle 
with salt and pepper, and let drain on a tipped plate 
for three-quarters of an hour; make a light batter 



64 THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER Y. 

with one egg, flour and a little water, dip the slices 
into it and fry in butter or lard. Eggs and cracker 
may be used instead of the batter. 

DANDELIONS. 

They are fit for use until they blossom. Cut off 
the leaves, pick over carefully, wash in several wa- 
ters, put into boiling water, boil one hour, drain well; 
add salted boiling water, and boil two hours; when 
done, turn into a colander and drain, season with 
butter, and more salt if needed, and cut with a 
knife; or boil with a piece of salt pork, omitting the 
butter in dressing. 

ONIONS WITH DRESSING. 

Wash and peel, boil ten minutes, pour off the wa- 
ter and aorain add boiling* water, add salt and boil 
till tender (about an hour, two if they are old). 
Make a dressing by taking a pint of milk, adding a 
large piece of butter, some salt and pepper and 
thickening; pour it over the onions and serve at once. 

MASHED POTATOES. 

Pare and boil till done, drain, and mash in the 
kettle until perfectly smooth; add milk or cream, 
and butter and salt; beat like cake with a large 
spoon; the more they are beaten the nicer they be- 
come. Put in a dish, smooth, place a lump of butter 
in the center and sprinkle with pepper. 



THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER V. 6$ 

FRIED RAW POTATOES. 

Wash, peel, and slice in cold water, drain in a 
colander, and drop in a spider prepared with two 
tablespoons melted butter or beef- drippings, or one- 
half of each; keep closely covered for ten minutes, 
only removing to stir with a knife from the bottom 
to prevent burning; cook another ten minutes, stir-^ 
ring frequently until done and lightly browned. 

NEW POTATOES, 

Wash, scrape, l)oil ten minutes, turn off water, and 
add enough more, boiling hot, to cover, also add a 
little salt; cook a few moments, drain, and set again 
on stove; add butter, salt, and pepper and a little 
thickening made of two tablespoons flour in about 
a pint of milk, put on the cover, and, when the milk 
has boiled, serve. 

POTATOES IX KENTUCKY STYLE. 

Slice thin, lay in cold water half an hour, put into 
pudding dish with salt, pepper, and about half a 
pint of milk; bake in oven for an hour; add a piece 
of butter half the size of a hen's egg^ scattered in 
pieces over the top. 

POTATOES IN SEVEN WAYS. 

First. — Peel, steam, mash, add milk, butter and 
salt, and then beat like cake-batter, the longer the 



66 THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER V. 

better, till they are nice and light. This steaming 
and beating will be found a great improvement. 

Second. — Baked potatoes in their jackets; if anj 
are left they may be warmed over, peeling when 
cold, and then slicing. 

Third. — Peel and bake with roast of beef. 

Fourth. — Prepare in Kentucky style. 

Fifth. — Peel, steam, and serve whole. 

Sixth. — Potatoes "a la pancake f peel, cut in 
thin slices lengthwise, sprinkle with pepper and salt, 
and fry in butter or beef drippings, turning like 
griddle-cakes. 

Seventh. — Potatoes boiled in their jackets. 

SWEET POTATOES. 

Bake in a hot oven one hour. Or boil them and 
when cold, cut in slices and fry in spider till nicely 
browned; salt and pepper while frying. 

PARSNIPS. 

Wash and boil till tender, pull off the skins and 
cut lengthwise; lay on a platter and put slices of 
butter over them; sprinkle with salt and pepper. 
Or boil, and when cold, slice off and fry. 

GREEN PEAS. 

Wash lightly two quarts shelled peas, put into 
boiling water enough to cover, boil twenty minutes, 
add pepper, salt, and some milk and two tablespoons 



THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER K 67 

butter rubbed into two of flour; stir well, and boil 
five minutes. 

SALSIFY, OR VEGETABLE OYSTERS. 

Parboil after scraping off the outside, cut in slices, 
dip it into a beaten ^g^ and fine bread-crumbs, and 
fry in lard. Or, slice cross- wise five or six good-sized 
plants, cook till tender in water enough to cover, 
then add a pint or more of rich milk mixed with one 
tablespoon flour, season with butter, pepper and salt, 
let boil up and pour over slices of toasted bread; or 
add three pints milk, or half milk and water, season 
and serve with crackers like oyster soup. 

CYMLINGS, OR SUMMER SQUASH. 

These are better when young and tender, which 
may be known by pressing the nail through the skin; 
do not peel or take out seeds, but boil whole, or cut 
across in thick slices; boil in as little water as possi- 
ble for one-half or three-quarters of an hour, drain 
well, mash and set on back of stove or range to dry 
out for ten or fifteen minutes, stirring occasionally; 
then season with butter, pepper, salt and a little 
cream. 

WINTER SQUASH. 

Cut up, take out inside, pare the pieces and stew 
in as little water as possible, cook an hour, mash in 
kettle, and if watery, let stand on the fire a few mo- 



68 THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER K 

ments, stirring until dry; season with a tablespoon 
of sugar, butter, salt and pepper ; be careful 
that it does not burn. Winter squashes are also 
cooked by cutting in pieces without paring, baking, 
and serving like potatoes; or they may be cooked in 
a steamer, and served either in the shell, or scraped 
out, put in pan, mashed, and seasoned with butter, 
sugar, salt and pepper, and then made hot and 
served. 

SUCCOTASH. 

"Wash one pint dried lima beans and one and 
a half pints dried corn; put beans in kettle and 
cover with cold water; cover corn with cold water 
in a tin pan, set on top of kettle of beans so that 
while the latter are boiling the corn may be heating 
and swelling; boil beans fifteen minutes, drain off, 
cover with boiling water, and when tender (half an 
hour) add oorn, cooking both together for fifteen 
minutes; five minutes before serving, add salt, pep- 
per and a dressing of butter and flour rubbed to- 
gether, or one-half teacup cream or milk thickened 
with one tablespoon flour. 

SPINACH. 

Look over the spinach, wash in four waters and 
take off stalks, boil for thirty minutes, covering 
closely, drain in a colander and cut with a knife 
while draining; season with pepper, salt and a little 



THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER V. 69 

butter, boil two eggs hard and slice over the top; 
serve hot. Or it may, when boiled soft, be rubbed 
through the colander, then put in frying-pan, with a 
lump of butter, seasoned with pepper and salt. 
When hot, beat in two or three tablespoons rich 
cream. Put thin slices of buttered toast (one for 
each person) on dish and on each piece put a cupful 
of spinach neatly smoothed in shape, with the half 
of a hard-boiled egg on the top, cut part uppermost. 

STEWED TOMATOES. 

Let them stand in hot water a few moments and 
the skins will slip off easily; slice, and put on to 
cook, after seasoning well with butter, salt and pep- 
per; when nearly done add a few bread-crumbs. 

BAKED TOMATOES. 

Cut a thin slice from the blossom side of the toma- 
toes; remove the pulp; chop some bread fine and 
mix with the pulp; season with butter, salt and pep- 
per and fill the tomatoes with it; put the slice you 
removed back in place ; bake half an hour in a pan 
with a little water to keep them from burning. 

TOMATO SOUP. 

We gave under "soups " in the third chapter. 
TURNIPS. 

Wash, peel, cut in thin slices across the grain, and 



70 THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER Y, 

place in kettle in as little water as possible; boil 
from half to three-quarters of an hour or until jou 
can easily pierce them with a fork; drain well, sea- 
son with salt, pepper and butter, mash fine and 
place on stove, stirring frequently until water is all 
dried out. Do not boil too long, as they are much 
sweeter when cooked quickly. Turnips may be 
steamed and finished as above, and are better than 
when boiled. They may also be sliced and baked. 

BAKED BEANS. 

Soak one quart of beans over night in cold water. 
Throw this away in the morning, and cover well with 
water a little more than lukewarm. Soak two hours, 
drain, and put on in a pot well covered with cold 
water; boil gently until soft, but not broken. Mean- 
while, boil for ten minutes a square half pound of 
pork; take it up, score the top in lines the width of 
a slice apart; drain the beans, put them into a bake- 
dish, season with molasses and mustard, and bury the 
pork up to the rind in the middle. Cover with boil- 
ing water, fit on a tin lid, or a stout plate, to keep in 
the steam. Cook in a moderate oven three hours, 
then uncover and brown lightly. 

BEAN PORRIDGE. 

Soak one cup of beans over night in cold water. 
In the morning put on to cook in cold water; add to 
it as it boils away; cook for about three hours, until 



THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER V. 71 

the beans have partially cooked to pieces. When 
the water first begins to boil add a small piece of 
salt pork (the size of your hand) ; season with pepper 
and more salt if the pork has not salted it sufficiently. 

EGGS. 

The fresher they are the better and more whole- 
some, though new laid eggs require to be cooked 
longer than others. Eggs over a week old will do to 
fry. but not to boil. In boiling they are less likely 
tc crack if dropped in water not quite to the boiling 
point. Eggs will cook soft in three minutes, hard in 
five, veri/ hard (to serve with salads, or to slice thin — 
seasoned well with pepper and salt — and put be- 
tween thin slices of bread and butter) in ten to fifteen 
minutes. 

BOILED EGGS. 

An egg boiled four minutes (well covered with the 
boiling water) will suit the generality of people. 

Another way is to put them on in cold water, and 
when it boils, the eggs will be done, the whites 
being soft and more digestible than they are when 
put on in boiling water. 

SCRAMBLED EGGS. 

In a deep earthen pie-plate, warm sweet milk, al- 
lowing' two tablespoons to each egg (or less, with a 
large number of eggs) add a bit of butter the size of 
a walnut, and a little salt and pepper. When nearly 



72 THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER V. 

to boiling point drop in the eggs, broken one at a 
time in a saucer; with a spoon or thin-bladed knife 
gently cut the eggs, and scrape the mixture up from 
the bottom of the plat^ as it cooks. If it begins to 
cook dry and fast at the bottom, move the dish back 
instantly, for success depends wholly on cooking 
gently and evenly, proportions being of secondary 
importance. Take from stove before it has quite all 
thickened, and continue turning it up from the bot- 
tom of dish a moment longer. 

POACHED EGGS. 

Break and drop them, one at a time, into salted 
water. Boil three or four minutes. Serve on but- 
tered toast; lay butter on the top of eggs and 
sprinkle with salt and pepper. 

FRIED EGGS. 

Break them into a spider with hot lard or ham 
grease; dip the grease over them with a spoon until 
done. If the former is used they must be salted and 
peppered, if the latter, pepper alone will be sufficient. 

OMELETTE. 

One cup of sweet milk, a small piece of butter, 
salt and pepper. Beat the yelks and whites of five 
eggs separately; stir in the yelks thoroughly and 
then the whites partially. Bake in pudding-dish 
fifteen minutes. Serve hot in same dish. 



THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER K 73 



CHAPTER VIII. 

Griddle Cakes — Cookies — Doughxuts — Ginger 
Bread. 

BUCKWHEAT GRIDDLE CAKES. 

To make batter, warm one pint sweet milk and 
one pint water; put half this mixture in a stone 
crock, add five teacups buckwheat flour, beat well 
until smooth, add the rest of the milk and water, 
and last a teacup of yeast. Or, the same ingredi- 
ents and proportions may be used except adding two 
tablespoons of molasses or sugar, and using one 
quart of water instead of one pint each of milk and 
water; a little salt. Set over night; each morning 
before using {i. 6., after it has been re-set several 
times) add a little soda dissolved in water. Each 
night add more water and buckwheat flour. 

horsford buckwheat cakes. 

Mix "over night," with warm water, a little salt, 
and a tablespoon molasses, one pint buckwheat flour, 
to the usual consistency of griddle cakes. When 
ready to bake for breakfast, add one measure each of 
acid and soda (or two heaping teaspoons acid and one 
moderately heaping teaspoon soda) of Horsford's 
Bread Preparation — thinning the batter if necessary 



74 THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER Y. 

— and bake immediately on a hot griddle. Stir up 
no more than will be used at each time. 

BATTER CAKES. 

One pint of sour, milk, in which dissolve one level 
teaspoon of soda, one or two well beaten eggs (as 
you like) a little salt, a tablespoon of butter; mix 
thoroughly with flour to the consistency of a batter. 
It must be thicker than for buckwheat cakes. Sweet 
milk and baking powder can be used. 

RICE CAKES. 

Make batter like the above, but to the milk, ^ggt 
&c., add one-fourth cup of rice that you have previ- 
ously cooked and enough flour to make a batter. Oat- 
meal cakes can be made by substituting oatmeal for 
rice. 

CORN CAKES. 

One pint corn meal, one of sour milk or butter- 
milk, one ^^^^t one teaspoon soda, one of salt. A 
tablespoon of flour or corn starch may be used in 
place of the ^^^\ bake on a griddle. 

BREAD CAKES. 

Take stale bread and soak over night in sour milk; 
in the morning rub through a colander, and to one 
quart add the yelks of two eggs, one teaspoon salt, 
one teaspoon soda, two tablespoons sugar, and flour 



THE G OLDEN ME A N IN CO OKER V. 75 

enough to make a batter a little thicker than for 
buckwheat cakes; add last the well beaten whites of 
the eggs, and bake. 

COOKIES. 

In making cookies there are a few general rules to 
be followed as in making cake. They are. these : 
To cream the butter and sugar with a spoon or the 
hand; beat the eggs thoroiighly ; and add the baking 
powder to the sifted flour. 

SUGAR COOKIES. 

Two cups of sugar creamed with one of butter, 
two well beaten eggs, one cup of sweet milk, three 
teaspoons of baking powder, one teaspoon of lemon, 
vanilla or bitter almond. Use as little flour as pos- 
sible; roll thin; sift sugar over the top and roll the 
rolling pin over it once gently. Bake quick and 
slightly brown. 

EGOLESS COOKIES. 

Two cups sugar, one of butter, half teaspoon nut- 
ineg, three teaspoons baking powder, flour to make 
thick enough to roll. 

CREAM COOKIES. 

Two cups sugar, one of butter, one of sour cream 
or milk, three eggs, one teaspoon soda; mix soft, roll 
thin, sift granulated sugar over them, and gently 
roll it in. 



76 THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER K 

COCOANUT JUMBLES. 

Two cups sugar, one cup butter, two eggs, half a 
grated cocoanut; make just stiff enough to roll out; 
roll thin. 

GINGER COOKIES. 

One well beaten ^^^\ one cup of sugar, one cup 
of N. O. molasses, one half cup of lard, one table- 
spoon and a half of soda; one teaspoon each of cin- 
namon and ginger, three tablespoons of boiling wa- 
ter on the soda. Use as little flour as possible. 

GINGER SNAPS. 

One cup of lard, one of N. O. molasses, one of 
sugar and one tablespoon of soda in one cup of hot 
water, two teaspoons of ginger. Mix soft with flour, 
roll thin and bake quick. 

DOUGHNUTS. 

To cook these properly the fat should be of the 
right heat. When hot enough it will cease to bub- 
ble and be perfectly still; try with a bit of the 
dough, and if the heat is right it will rise in a 
few seconds to the top and occasion a bubbling in the 
fat, the cake will swell, and the under side quickly 
become brown. Clarified drippings of roast meat 
are more wholesome than lard. Make the dough €is 
soft as it can be handled^ if cut about half an inch 
thick, five to eight minutes will cook them, but it is 
better to break one open as a test. When done, 



THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER K ^y 

drain well in a skimmer, and place in a colander. 
The use of eggs prevents the dough from absorbing 
the fat. Doughnuts should be watched closely while 
frying, and the fire must be regulated very carefully. 
When you have finished frying-, cut a potato in slices 
and put in the fat to clarify it; place the kettle away 
until the fat "settles," strain into an earthern pot 
kept for this purpose, and set in a cool place. 

PLAIN DOUGHNUTS. 

One cup of sugar, one tablespoon of melted 
butter, one cup sweet milk, two eggs, one teaspoon 
of baking powder; flavor with nutmeg. Add flour; 
mix soft. 

RICH DOUGHNUTS. 

One cup of sugar, two well beaten eggs, one-half 
teaspoon of soda in one cup of sour milk, three 
tablespoons butter and three of lard (warm) one 
nutmeg. 

GINGER BREAD. 

One cup New Orleans molasses, one-half cup but- 
ter, one-half cup sour milk, one ^^^-^ one teaspoon of 
soda in sour milk, one of ginger, a little salt and one 
pint flour. 

CHEAP GINGER BREAD. 

One cup New Orleans molasses, and in it one tea- 
spoon of soda, one cup of sour milk, three table- 
spoons of butteir and lard mixed, one teaspoon of 



78 THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER Y. 

ginger and one of cinnamon, make about as stiff 
with flour as for loaf cake, or as a stiff batter. 

GINGER BREAD (NO. 3). 

One cup New Orleans molasses, one-half cup su- 
gar, one cup of sour milk, three eggs, one cup butter 
and lard, mixed, one teaspoon soda in the sour milk, 
one tablespoon of ginger, and three cups of flour. 



CHAPTER IX. 

Cake — Frosting — Icing — Crystallization. 

cake baking. 
Before making your cake provide everything that 
will be needed till the cake is baked; sift your flour; 
grease the cake pans with lard and if for a loaf 
cake, grease a piece of blank paper and put it in 
the bottom of the tin that the cake may not bake 
too hard on the bottom; mako a cap of brown pa- 
per to cover the top with, and put it over the cake 
when it is first put in the oven. Make the cap by 
taking a square of brown paper large enough to 
cover well the cake pan, cut off the corners, and lay 
a plait on four sides, fastening each with a pin so 
that it will fit nicely over the pan. This will throw 



THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER V. 79 

it up in the center, so that it will not touch the cake. 
Preserve the cap for repeated use. 

Having thus gathered the material, cut butter (in 
cold weather) in small pieces, and warm, 7iot melt; 
beat the butter and sugar to a cream, add the milk 
in small quantities, next the yelks of the eggs, then a 
part of the flour, with the baking powder in it, then a 
part of the whites, and so on until the whole is used; 
lastly, add the flavoring. In using milk note this: 
that sour milk makes a spongy, light cake; sweet 
milk, one that cuts like pound cake; remembering 
that with sour milk soda alone is used, while with 
sweet milk baking powder or soda and cream of tartar 
are to be added. 

Too much care cannot be used in the preparation 
of the oven for baking. Many test their ovens in 
this way: if the hand can be held in it from twenty to 
thirty-five seconds, or while counting twenty or thir- 
ty-five, it is a " quick " oven, from thirty to forty-five 
seconds is " moderate," and from forty to sixty sec- 
onds is " slow." Sixty seconds is a good oven to be- 
gin with for large fruit cakes. 

Larger cakes require a quick oven, and loaf cakes 
a slow or moderate oven. 

Do not open the oven door until the cake has had 
time to form, and do not open it oftener than neces- 
sary ; then be careful to close it quickly and gently, 
fio as not to jar the cake. Be sure the outside door 



8o THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER Y, 

of the kitchen is closed so that no cold air may 
strike it. If the oven bakes too hard on the bottom, 
place the grate under the pan; if too hot on top, set 
a pie-pan of water on the top grate. If one side 
bakes faster than the other, turn very gently. Be 
careful not to remove from the oven until done; test 
thoroughly before removing, for if the cooler air 
strikes it before it is done, it is certain to fall. Al- 
low about thirty minutes for each inch of thickness 
in a quick oven, and more time in a slow one. Test 
with a broom-splint or knitting-needle, and if the 
dough does not adhere, it is done. 

NUT CAKE. 

One and one-half cups of sugar, and one and one- 
half cups of butter (creamed), three-fourths cup sweet 
milk, the well beaten whites of four eggs, two cups 
of flour, three teaspoons of baking powder and one 
cup of chipped hickory nuts, butter-nuts, or of 
blanched almonds pounded. To blanch almonds, 
pour boiling water over them, let stand a moment, 
drain and throw them into cold water; then slip ofP 
the skins. 

BREAD CAKE. 

One pint of dough when ready to go in bread 
pans, three-fourths of a cup of butter, one ^^^t and 
heaping cup of sugar, one cup of chopped raisins, 
dredged with flour and added the last thing, one tea- 



THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER Y. 8i 

spoon each of cinnamon, allspice and cloves, one tea- 
spoon of soda dissolved in a little warm water, mix 
thoroughly with the hands and let rise. 

WHITE CAKE. 

One and one-half cups of sugar, one-half cup of 
butter, the whites of four eggs beaten to a froth, 
one-half cup of sweet milk, two cups of flour, three 
teaspoons of baking powder; flavor with one tea- 
spoon of lemon, vanilla, or butter almond. 

CREAM FRUIT CAKE. 

Three cups of sugar and one-half cup of butter 
and two well beaten eggs, one cup of sour milk and 
cream, mixed, one teaspoon of soda in sour milk, one 
teaspoon each of ground cloves, cinnamon, and nut- 
meg; flour enough to stir stiff. One cup of raisins 
(chopped and dredged with flour). 

FRUIT CAKE (No. 2). 

One cup butter and one of broAvn sugar (creamed) 
half pint molasses, two eggs, cup sour milk, teaspoon 
soda, pound of flour, one of currants, one and a half 
pounds raisins. Flavor to taste. 

FRUIT CAKE (No. 3). 

One and a half cups brown sugar, two of flour, 
one each of butter and chopped raisins, three eggs, 
three tablespoons sour milk, half teaspoon soda, 
half cup blackberry jam. 



82 THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKERY, 

FRUIT CAKE (No. 4). 

This recipe will make a loaf large enough to bake 
in a small milk pan, and improves with age. One 
and one-half pounds of butter, one and one-half 
pounds of sugar (creamed) eight well beaten eggs, 
one cup of molasses, one wine glass of jelly (grape 
is the best) two and one-half pounds of raisins (seed- 
ed, chopped and dredged with flour) two and one- 
half pounds of currants, six ounces of sliced citron, 
one tablespoonful each of nutmeg and mace, one tea- 
spoon allspice, one of cinnamon, and one of cloves, 
one and one -half pounds of flour, two teaspoons of 
soda and four of cream of tartar; dissolve the soda 
in a tablespoonful of warm water; put cream of tar- 
tar in flour. 

WHITE FRUIT CAKE. 

Two cups of sugar, one cup of butter, four well 
beaten eggs, one cup of sour and sweet milk mixed, 
three cups of flour, one-half teaspoon of soda in 
milk, three cups of English currants, washed and 
dredged with flour. This will make two loaves. 

CORN STARCH CAKE. 

Two cups of sugar, creamed thoroughly with one 
small cup of butter, the whites of seven eggs, whip- 
ped to a froth, one cup of sweet milk, one cup of 
corn starch, two full cups of flour, three teaspoons of 
baking powder in sifted flour; flavor with one tea- 



THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER V. 83 

spoon of any extract you prefer; bitter almond is 
very nice. 

CORN STARCH CAKE (No. 2). 

One small half cup of butter creamed with one 
and one-half cups of sugar, the well beaten whites 
of two eggs, one-half cup of sweet milk, one full 
cup of flour, one-half cup corn starch, two teaspoons 
of powder. Flavor. 

MOLASSES CAKE. 

One-half cup of sugar, five tablespoons of melted 
butter, one cup of molasses, one well beaten egg, 
one-half cup of milk, one teaspoon of cinnamon, 
about one and one-half cups of flour, two teaspoons 
of baking powder and one-half cup of raisins chop- 
ped and dredged with flour. 

SPONGE CAKE. 

Three well beaten eggs, one cup of sugar, one cup 
of flour, two teaspoons of baking powder; the last 
thing pour on one-third of a cup of hot water; beat 
up; flavor and put in hot oven and it will bake in 
about fifteen minutes. 

COFFEE CAKE. 

One cup brown sugar, cup molasses, half cup but- 
ter, cup strong cofEee, one egg or yelks of two, four 
even cups flour, heaping teaspoon soda in the flour, 
tablespoon cinnamon, teaspoon cloves, two pounds 



84 THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER V. 

raisins, fourth pound citron. Soften the butter, oeat 
with the sugar, add the ^gg-, spices, molasses, and 
coffee, then the flour, and lastly the fruit, chopped 
and dredged with a little flour. Bake one hour in 
moderate oven, or make in two small loaves which 
will bake in a short time. 

DELICATE CAKE. 

Three cups flour, two of sugar, three-fourths cup 
sweet milk, whites of six eggs, half cup butter, tea- 
spoon cream of tartar, half teaspoon of soda. Flavor 
with lemon. Good and easily made. 

COCOANUT CAKE. 

One cup butter and three of sugar (creamed) one 
of sweet milk, four and a half of flour, four eggs 
with whites beaten to a stiff froth, a teaspoon soda, 
two of cream tartar, one grated cocoanut. 

YELLOW CAKE. 

One cup of sugar and one-half cup butter, cream- 
ed, the well beaten yelks of four eggs, one-half cup 
of sweet milk, one and one-half cups of flour and 
two teaspoons of baking powder (in flour). Flavor. 

MARBLE CAKE. 

Take any cake recipe, divide it when mixed, and 
to one-half of it add grated chocolate and spices till 
it is dark enough to suit you; then put into the pan 



THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKERY. 85 

two tablespoonfuls of the white followed by two of 
the dark and so on, till it is all used. 

SNOW CAKE. 

Whites of ten eggs beaten to a stiff froth, sift 
lightly on this one and a half cups fine white or pul- 
verized sugar, stir well, and add cup flour mixed with 
two teaspoons baking powder; flavor with lemon or 
vanilla. This is very nice to serve with ice cream. 

CREAM PUFFS. 

One-half cup of butter and one cup of boiling 
water; into these stir one cup of flour; when cool, 
add three well beaten eggs, and one-fourth teaspoon 
of soda dissolved in a little warm water. Bake in 
gem irons (when heated and greased); it will make 
twelve cakes. 

FILLING FOR CREAM PUFFS. 

After the puffs are baked, set them aside till cool, 
then take off carefully a slice from the top and fill 
the cavity with a sauce made of one-half cup of su- 
gar, one well beaten ^^^^^ and one cup of milk; boil 
and thicken with flour or corn starch; flavor with 
lemon or vanilla. When filled replace the slice 
you removed. 

ONE-EGG CAKE. 

One cup of sugar creamed with nearly one-half 
cup of butter, one well beaten Q^^-, one cup of sweet 



86 THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER V. 

milk, two cups of flour, two heaping teaspoons of 
baking powder in flour; flavor. This recipe can be 
used in endless variety, as a loaf cake or layer cake. 
Add spices for spice cake; fruit for white fruit cake; 
make a marble cake of it by adding spices and 
grated chocolate to one-half of it. It will also make 
good cookies by adding more flour. 

ROLL JELLY CAKE. 

Use the recipe for sponge cake/ bake it in long 
cookie pan. When done spread with jelly, roll up 
and cut from the ends. 

LAYER CAKES. 

Use the recipe for sponge cake, if you like sponge 
layer cake, or use the recipe for one-egg cake; bake 
in four round pie pans. 

LEMON LAYER CAKE. 

For cake see the remarks above on lager cakes/ for 
filling, use the grated peel and the juice of one 
lemon, one well beaten egg, one cup of sugar, one 
tablespoon of flour blended with a little water and 
one CUD of hot water; boil till it thickens. 

WHITE STARCH SPONGE CAKE. 

One and one-half cups of sugar creamed with one- 
half cup of butter, the well beaten whites of six 
eggs, one and one-half cups of flour, one-half cup of 



THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER V. 87 

corn starch, one-half cup of sweet milk, two tea- 
spoons of baking powder in flour. Flavor. 

SOUR CREAM CAKE. 

Break two eggs in a cup and fill up with sour 
cream, one cup of sugar, one teaspoon of soda in 
cream, two cups of flour. Flavor. Sweet cream 
and baking powder can be used. 

CHOCOLATE LAYER CAKE. 

For cake, see "Layer Cakes," for the filling, one 
cup of grated chocolate (bakers' vinsweetened), three- 
fourths of a cup of sugar, two cups of milk; boil 
till it thickens; when cool, add one well beaten egg. 
Another way to prepare chocolate for layer cakes is 
to grate it with frosting made of the well beaten 
whites of two eggs, and twenty teaspoons of pulver- 
ized sugar. Spread it on the layers while hot in 
order to dissolve the chocolate. 

COCOANUT LAYER CAKE. 

To the well-beaten yelks of six eggs, add two 
cups powdered white sugar, three-fourths cup but- 
ter, one of sweet milk, three and a half cups of flotir, 
whites of four eggs well beaten, two teaspoons of 
baking powder in flour; bake in jelly cake pans. 
For icing, grate one cocoanut, beat whites of two 
eggs, and add one teacup powdered sugar; mix thor- 



88 THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER V. 

oughly with the grated cocoanut, and spread evenly 
on the layers of cake when they are cold. 

ICE CREAM LAYER CAKE. 

Make good sponge cake, bake half an inch thick 
in jelly pans, and let them get perfectly cold; take 
a pint thick sweet cream, beat until it looks 
like ice cream, make very sweet, and flavor with 
vanilla; blanch and chop a pound of almonds, stir into 
cream, and put very thick between each layer. 

HICKORY NUT LAYER CAKE. 

For cake, see " Layer Cakes." For custard, place 
one pint milk in a tin pail and set in boiling water; 
add a tablespoon of corn starch blended with a little 
milk, two eggs, one-half cup sugar, two cups chop- 
ped hickory nut meats, well mixed with the boil- 
ing milk; stir, and put between the layers of the 
cake, while both cake and custard are warm. The 
custard without the nuts is nice for a layer cake. 

ORANGE LAYER CAKE. 

One cup butter, two of sugar, one of water, four 
of flour, three eggs, three teaspoons baking powder; 
bake in layers. Take the juice of two large or three 
small oranges, coffee cup pulverized sugar, one egg; 
mix yelk of egg, sugar, and juice together; beat 
whites to a stiff froth, stir it and spread between the 
layers. 



THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER Y, 89 

PEACH LAYER CAKE. 

Bake three sheets of sponge cake as for jelly cake; 
cut peaches in thin slices, prepare cream by whip- 
ping, sweetening, and add flavor of vanilla if de- 
sired, put layers of peaches between the sheets of 
cake, pour cream over each layer and over the top. 
This may also be made with ripe strawberries. 

RIBBON CAKE. 

Two and a half cups sugar, one of butter, one of 
sweet milk, four cups flour, two teaspoons of baking 
powder, four eggs; reserve a third of this mixture, 
and bake the rest in two tins of the same size. Add 
to third reserved, one cup raisins, fourth pound cit- 
ron, a cup of currants, two tablespoons molasses, tea- 
spoon each of all kinds of spice ; bake in a pan the 
same size as other two; put the three cakes together 
with a little icing or currant jelly, placing the fruit 
cake in the middle; frost the top and sides. 

FIG LAYER CAKE. 

For cake, see " Layer Cake," &c., for filling, boil 
a cupful of figs, with sugar to taste, till like jelly. 
Spread on the layers. 

RAISIN LAYER CAKE. 

For cake, take any layer cake ; then seed and chop 
enough raisins to fill two cups; spread them on the 
layers and cover with a frosting made of the well 
beaten whites of two eggs (the yelks can be used for 



90 THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER Y. 

the cake; two yelks counting as one egg) and twenty 
teaspoons of pulverized sugar. 

FROSTING. 

Have the frosting ready when the cake is baked; 
beat the white of one eg^ to a stiff froth, then stir 
in ten heaping teaspoons pulverized sugar (well 
heaped, but not all that you can lift on the spoon) 
and one of corn starch; be sure that it is thorougly 
beaten before takincr the cake from the oven. Or, 
breaK the white of an eg^g into a plate and at once 
begin adding powdered and sifted sugar, keep add- 
ing gradually, beating well all the while until the 
icing is perfectly smooth; lastly, add flavoring (rose, 
pineapple or almond for white or delicate cake, and 
lemon or vanilla for dark or fruit cake). As eggs 
vary in size, some common sense must be used in the 
quantity of the sugar. Practice only will teach how 
stiff icing ought to be. In preparing for a large 
party when it is inconvenient to frost each cake as 
it is taken from the oven, and a number have become 
cold, place them in the oven to heat before frosting. 
If the cake is rough or brown when baked, dust with 
a little flour, rub off all loose particles with a cloth, 
put on frosting, pouring it around the center of the 
cake, and smooth off as quickly as possible with a 
knife. If the frosting is rather stiff, dip the knife 
in cold water. 



TH^ GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER Y. 91 

BOILED FROSTING. 

Whites of three eggs beaten to a stiff froth, one 
large cup granulated sugar moistened with four 
tablespoons hot water; boil sugar briskly for five 
minutes or until it " ropes " or threads when dropped 
from the end of the spoon. Then, with left hand, 
pour the boiling syrup upon the beaten eggs in a 
small stream, while beating hard with right hand. If 
preferred, add half a pound sweet almonds blanched 
and pounded to a paste, or a cup of hickory-nut 
meats chopped fine. This amount will frost the top 
of two large cakes. 

ALMOND FROSTING. 

Blanch half pint sweet almonds by putting them 
in boiling water, stripping off the skins, and spread- 
ing upon a dry cloth until cold; pound a few of 
them at a time in a mortar till well pulverized; mix 
carefully whites of three eggs and three-quarters pint 
powdered sugar, add almonds, flavor with a teaspoon 
vanilla or lemon, and dry in a cool oven or in the 
open air when weather is pleasant. 

CHOCOLATE FROSTING. 

Six rounded tablespoons grated chocolate, one and 
a half cups powdered sugar, whites of three eggs; 
beat the whites but very little (they must not become 
white) add the chocolate, stir it in; then pour in the 
sugar gradually, beating to mix it well. 



92 THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER K 

FROSTING (WHITE AND COLORED). 

Beat whites of two eggs to a stiff froth, add grad- 
ually twenty teaspoons pulverized sugar, beat well for 
at least half an hour, and flavor with lemon juice. 
To color a delicate pink, use strawberry, currant or 
cranberry juice; or the grated peeling of an orange or 
lemon moistened with the juice and squeezed through 
a thin cloth, will color a handsome yellow. This* 
amount will frost one large cake or two small ones. 

FROSTING WITH GELATINE. 

Dissolve large pinch gelatine in six tablespoons 
boiling water; strain and thicken with sugar and 
flavor with lemon. This is enough to frost two cakes. 

YELLOW FROSTING. 

The yelk of one eo^^ to ten heapmg teaspoons 
pulverized sugar, and flavor with vanilla. Use the 
same day it is made. 

COCOANUT FROSTING. 

To the white frosting (made in the proportion of 
ten teaspoons of pulverized sugar to the white of one 
^gg) add as much or as little of either desiccated 
cocoanut or a fresh grated cocoanut, which is nicer. 
Then spread the cake with the frosting and sprinkle 
on more cocoanut. 

ICING. 

Ornamental icing consists in working two or more 



THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER V. 93 

colors of icing on one surface, — such, for instance, as 
pink and white, sometimes with, sometimes without, 
the addition of crystallizing. To ice a cake white 
and pipe or ornament it with pink pipery, or ice it 
with pink or chocolate icing and pipe it with white 
icing, would constitute ornamental icing. But there 
is another method called " inlaid," which consists of 
having different colored icing on the same surface, 
not simply a different colored piping on the icing. 
To do it take a cone, cut a fine point off, fill it, draw 
fine lines first straight doAvn one inch apart, then 
across at the same distance at right angles; you have 
then formed squares one inch across. Now fill these 
in alternately with either white or pink and white, 
and then chocolate icing or pink and chocolate. You 
then have the squares in two colors, the same as they 
would appear on a chess or checker-board. The only 
point to be here observed is to have your icing soft 
enough to run smooth; the lines will prevent it 
from running together. You can work any pattern 
you choose in this manner by simply running a line 
of piping to form the design, then filling in as l^efore 
described. You can also further vary this by mark- 
ing out any design, and with a small paint brush 
washing it over with the white of an egg or gum- 
water, then covering it with granulated sugar either 
plain white or colored; or you can cover it with pow- 
dered chocolate or rolled rock candy, either pink or 



94 THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER Y, 

white; shake ofE what will not stick, and you will 
find the design covered with the sugar; now pipe 
round the edge of the design with a fine cone of 
icing sugar, and it is complete. 

TO MAKE WATER ICING. 

Take any quantity of powdered sugar you require, 
add cold water enough to form a thick paste (remem- 
bering it will not take much); beat well, and if too 
thin so that it runs too much, add a little more sugar. 
To every pound of sugar add a level teaspoonful of 
cream of tartar; when this icing is prepared, spread 
it with a knife over the cake, and allow it to dry; 
you can then ornament or decorate it with icing sugar. 

This water icing may also be colored a light shade 
of pink with " cochineal," or a light cream color with 
saffron. For a mauve color, add a drop of indigo 
blue to the pink color; but remember none of these 
colors must be heavy, as they are objectionable and 
in bad taste. Water icing is used for tops of pound, 
sponge, and other cakes, also for tops of layer cakes. 

CHOCOLATE ICING. 

Ask any confectionery for a piece of " Baker's 
eagle cocoa;" and if you cannot procure that, ask 
any grocer for pure cocoa in block, or what is called 
" Baker's premium cocoa." Place what you need of 
it in a basin, and stand the basin in boiling water 



THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER Y, 95 

until the cocoa is dissolved, then add powdered 
sugar to taste, and beat it well in ; add also the whites 
of two eggs (whisked up a little) to everj pound of 
cocoa used (this gives a gloss); beat the sugar in well 
and the whites of eggs; now with a knife spread the 
cocoa (or rather the chocolate now that it has the 
sugar in it, for chocolate is simply cocoa sweetened) 
evenlj on the cake; be as quick as possible with it, 
for as soon as it cools it gets hard. If you wish sim- 
ple cocoa icing, use the cocoa and whites of ^^^ 
only; but if you wish sweet or chocolate icing, add 
the sugar. To help you a little in the first attempt, 
add one tablespoonful of hot water to a pound of 
cocoa; this will keep it moist and liquid a little 
longer, but it will take a little longer to harden. 

Cocoa may also be mixed with sugar icing; add 
little or much cocoa as desired, and either ice a cake 
with this chocolate icing or use it for piping or orna- 
menting in the same manner as icing sugar is used. 

CREAM CHOCOLATE ICING. 

What is known as cream chocolate icing is done in 
the same manner, using half cocoa and half pure 
cream, and sweetening it to taste. In this case use 
no whites of eggs, but simply dissolve the cocoa as 
before described, then add the sugar, and afterwards 
gradually add and well stir in the cream. It is then 
ready for use. 



96 THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER K 

CRYSTALLIZATION. 

Crystallization consists in simply covering the cake 
while the icing is wet with granulated sugar, plain or 
pink. For coloring sugar pink you can use pink 
or white sugar or rock candy crushed. If you wish 
to crystallize only a portion of the icing, and that in 
any particular design, first allow the icing to dry, 
then wash the part you wish crystallized with white 
of ^^^ or gum- water, and cover it with the sugar; 
then shake off what will not remain on. 



CHAPTER X. 
Puddings — Puddi ng Sauces — Pastry. 

puddings. 
In making puddings, always beat the eggs well. 
If boiled milk is used, let it cool somewhat before 
adding the eggs; when fruit is added, stir it in at 
the last. Puddings are either baked, boiled or 
steamed; rice, bread, custard, and fruit puddings re- 
quire a moderate heat; batter and corn starch, a 
rather quick oven. Always bake them as soon as 
mixed. Add a pinch of salt to any pudding. 



THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER K 97 

APPLE ROLEY POLEY. 

Peel, quarter and core sour apples, make baking 
powder biscuit dough, roll to half an inch thick, 
slice the quarters, and lay on the prepared paste or 
crust, roll up, tuck ends in, prick deeply with a forky 
lay in a greased pan and bake. Or, wrap in a cloth, 
tie up the ends and baste up sides, put in a kettle of 
boiling water, and boil an hour and a half or niore^ 
keeping the water boiling constantly. Cut across, 
and eat with sweetened cream or butter and sua-ar. 
Cherries, dried fruit, or any kind of berries, can be 
used in the same way. 

BOILED APPLE DUMPLINGS. 

Add to two cups sour milk one teaspoon soda, and 
a little salt, half cup of butter or lard, flour enough 
to make doug^h a little stiffer than for biscuit; or 
make a good baking powder crust; peel and core 
apples, roll out crust, place apples on dough, fill 
cavity of each with sugar, encase each apple in coat- 
ing of the crust, press edges tight together (it is 
nice to tie a cloth around each one), put into kettle 
of boiling water slightly salted, boil half an hour, 
taking care that the water covers the dumplings. 
They are also very nice steamed. To l)ake, make in 
same way, using a soft dough, place in a shallow 
pan, bake in a hot oven, and serve with cream and 
sugar, or place in a pan which is four or five inches 



98 THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER Y. 

deep (do not have the dumplings touch each other); 
then pour in hot water, just leaving top of dumplings 
uncovered, and bake. 

WHITE CORN STARCH PUDDING. 

One pint sweet milk, whites of three eggs, two 
tablespoons corn starch, three of sugar, and a little 
salt. Put the milk in a pan or small pail, set in a 
kettle of hot water on the stove, and when it reaches 
the boiling point add the sugar, then the starch dis- 
solved in a little cold milk, and lastly the whites of 
eggs whipped to a stifE froth; beat it, and let it cook 
a few minutes, then pour into teacups, filling about 
half full, and set in cool place. For sauce, make a 
boiled custard as follows: Bring to boiling point 
one pint of milk, add three tablespoons sugar, then 
the beaten yelks thinned by adding one tablespoon 
milk, stirring all the time till it thickens; flavor with 
two teaspoons lemon or two of vanilla, and set to 
cool. In serving, put one of the molds in a sauce 
dish for each person, and pour over it some of the 
boiled custard. Or the pudding may be made in one 
large mold. 

CHOCOLATE PUDDING. 

To make a chocolate pudding, flavor the above 
pudding with vanilla, remove two-thirds of it, and 
add half a cake of chocolate softened, mashed, and 
dissolved in a little milk. Put a layer of half the 



THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKERY. 99 

white pudding into the mold, then the chocolate, 
the rest of the white; or two layers of chocolate 
may be used with a white between; or the center 
may be cocoa (made by adding half a cocoanut grated 
fine) and the outside chocolate; or pine apple chop- 
ped fine (if first cooked in a little water, the latter 
makes a nice dressing) or strawberries may be used. 

SIMPLE FRUIT PUDDINGS. 

Stew currants, or any small fruits, fresh or dried, 
with sugar to taste, and pour hot over thin slices of 
baker's bread with crust cut off, making alter- 
nate layers of fruit and bread, and leaving a thick 
layer of fruit for the last. Put a plate on top, and 
when cool set on ice; serve with sifted sugar, or 
cream and sugar. 

This pudding is delicious made with Boston or 
milk crackers, split open, and stewed apricots or 
peaches, with plenty of juice, arranged as above. Or 
another way is to toast and butter slices of bread, 
pour over it hot stewed fruit in alternate layers, and 
serve warm with rich hot sauce, which we will give 
later in this same chapter. 

STEAMED PUDDING. 

Two cups of sweet milk and one of sour, two cups 
of corn meal and one of flour, one ^^^-i a pinch of 
salt, three tablespoons of melted butter, small tea- 
spoon of soda dissolved in the sour milk. Steam two 



loo THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER K 

hours. Put on over cold water and do not remove 
the cover while steaming. Serve with sweetened 
cream. 

PEACH ROLLS. 

Use fresh fruit or stew dried fruit, sweeten, and fla- 
vor to taste; make a good baking powder crust, roll 
very thin, spread fruit on, putting thin slices of butter 
on the fruit, roll crust up, place in a pan four or five 
inches deep, to three or four rolls add one cup sugar, 
and a half cup butter; pour in hot water enough to 
cover them. Bake half an hour. 

PINE-APPLE PUDDING. 

Butter a pudding dish, and line the bottom and 
sides with slices of stale cake (sponge cake is best); 
pare and slice thin a large pine-apple, place in the 
dish first a layer of pine-apple, then strew with sugar, 
then more pine-apple, and so on until all is used, 
pour over a small teacup water, and cover with slices 
of cake which have been dipped in cold water; cov- 
er the whole with a buttered plate, and bake slowly. 

SUET PUDDING. 

One cup molasses, one of sweet milk, one of suet 
chopped fine, or half a cup melted butter, one of 
raisins, half cup currants, two and a hal-f cups flour, 
half teaspoon soda; mix well, salt and spice to taste, 
and steam two hours. 



THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER V. loi 

APPLE TAPIOCA PUDDING. 

To half teacup of tapioca, add three cups of 
cold water, let it stand on the fire till cooked 
clear, stirring to prevent burning, remove, sweeten 
and flavor with nutmeg; pour the tapioca into a 
deep dish into which have been placed six or eight 
pared and cored apples, bake until apples are done, 
and serve cold with cream. 

RICE PUDDING. 

To a cup of rice boiled in a custard kettle in a 
pint of water (seasoned with salt) until dry, add a 
pint of milk, the yelks of two eggs beaten with half 
a cup of sugar, stir well together, and lastly add the 
juice and grated rind of one lemon and a piece of 
butter. Place in a dish, and bake slowly in the oven ; 
when done, spread over the top the whites beaten 
with two tablespoons sugar, and brown in oven. A 
cup of raisins may be added just before baking. 

TAPIOCA PUDDING. 

Soak one cup of tapioca over night in cold water; 
in the morning pour off all the water that has not 
been absorbed, and add to it one quart of milk and 
one cup of sugar; cook in custard kettle, or in a cov- 
ered pail set in a pan of boiling water. When done 
add the well beaten yelks of three eggs; flavor, and 
put in a pudding dish; then cover the top with a 



102 THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER K 

meringue made of the whites of the three eggs (well 
beaten) and two tablespoons of sugar; put it in the 
oven a minute and let it brown. Sago and rice can 
be cooked in a similar manner. 

BICH BREAD PUDDING. 

Cream one-half cup of butter and one cup of 
sugar; to this add one quart of milk, the well beaten 
jelks of four eggs, the juice of one lemon, two cups 
of bread crumbs, and a little salt. Bake till firm; 
then cover the top with a meringue made of the 
whites of the four eggs, and two tablespoons of 
sugar; brown slightly in the oven. Half of this is 
enough for a small family. 

PLAIN BREAD PUDDING. 

One cup of bread crumbs (cake or cookies may oe 
substituted when less sugar is required), a small piece 
of butter, a well beaten ^^^^ a pint of sweet milk, a 
little salt, and half a cup of sugar. Hard sauce is 
nice eaten on it, or cream. 

GELATINE PUDDING. 

One-half package of gelatine soaked in one cup of 
water; then add one cup of boiling water; stir well, 
and add one cup of sugar and the juice of two lem- 
ons. When done put on ice to cool. Serve with 
^^^ sauce. 



THE G OLDEN MEAN IN CO OKER V. 103 

COTTAGE PUDDING. 

One cup of sugar, creamed with three and a half 
tablespoons of butter, one well beaten egg, one cup 
of sweet milk, two cups of flour, two heaping tea- 
spoons of baking powder, and a little nutmeg. Bake 
half an hour. Serve with hot liquid sauce. 

SNOW PUDDING. 

Dissolve three tablespoons of corn starch in a little 
cold water; pour one pint of boiling water over it; 
add a third of a cup of sugar, a little salt, and the 
last thing stir in thoroughly the well beaten whites 
of three eggs, remove from stove and flavor slightly; 
put in pudding dish and steam fifteen minutes. Set 
away to cool. Serve with a sauce made of the yelks 
of the three eggs, one cup of milk, half a cup of 
sugar, small piece of butter, and a teaspoon of corn 
starch blended with cold water; boil till it thickens. 
Serve cold; flavor sauce with lemon or vanilla. 

DELMONICO PUDDING. 

Boil one quart of milk, the well beaten yelks of 
three eggs, one-third cup of sugar, and three table- 
spoons of corn starch blended with water, till it thick- 
ens, stirring constantly; flavor; put in a pudding 
dish and on the top of it place three or four table- 
spoons of jelly, with one- third cup of sugar sprinkled 
over it; then cover with a meringue made of the 



I04 THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER Y. 

whites of three eggs and two spoonfuls of sugar; 
place in oven and slightly brown. Half of this is 
sufficient for a small family. 

PLAIN OATMEAL. 

Oatmeal, cracked wheat, rice, tapioca, sago, etc., — 
all ought to be cooked either in a custard kettle or 
in a covered tin pail set in a pan or kettle of boiling 
water. Oatmeal and cracked wheat should be cooked 
two or three hours. To a cup of either add one quart 
of cold water and a little salt. When it first begins 
to swell, stir it once, but not again till it is done, or 
it will become starchy. 

RICE BALLS. 

One pint of cooked rice, add some salt, one well 
beaten ^g'g-, and flour enough on the hands to make 
the rice adhere; lorm it into perfectly round balls 
and fry in lard or beef drippings like doughnuts. 
Serve hot with maple syrup. 

BAKER'S CAKE TRANSFORMED. 

When you have not time to make cake, buy a 
sponge or plain cup cake, slice horizontally into 
three or four divisions, spread with fruit jelly cus- 
tard, or with apple filling. Stir up the whites of two 
eggs with one heaping cup of powdered sugar, then 
whip stiff, add the juice of a lemon or of a sour 



THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER Y, 105 

orange, and cover the cake, top and sides. Dry in 
an open oven, or in the sunshine and air, and you 
have a nice dessert, 

A LATER BATTER CAKE. 

This makes a good plain dessert. For the batter, 
look at " Batter Cakes," in Chap. VIII. Bake four 
cakes the size of a breakfast plate; as soon as one 
is done lay it on plate; butter it and spread on sugar 
(maple is nice); then put it in the oven covered over 
with a tin to keep the sugar from drying up; as soon 
as another cake is baked, place it on top of the other; 
butter and sugar as before. In addition to the but- 
ter and sugar on the last cake, put some whipped 
cream, or the beaten white of an ^^^ over all. Serve 
at once. 

KISSES. 

Beat the whites of four or five eggs thoroughly; 
stiffen with pulverized sugar, flavor and drop a spoon- 
ful at a time on a greased paper, to bake. 

PUDDING SAUCES. 

There are three principal sauces, one of which can 
be used on all ordinary occasions. They are " hot 
liquid sauce," " ^^^ sauce" and " hard sauce." 

HOT LIQUID SAUCE. 

Cream one cup of sugar with one-fourth cup of 



io6 THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER V. 

butter; add one and one-half tablespoons of corn 
starch blended with water, and pour onto these 
enough boiling water to thicken it, slightly stirring 
the meanwhile; flavor. 

EGG SAUCE. 

One cup of sweet milk; into this when hot, stir 
two well beaten eggs, one cup of sugar, and one 
teaspoon of corn starch blended with a little water. 
Cook till it thickens slightly. Flavor and serve hot. 

HARD SAUCE. 

Stir to a cream one cup of sugar and one- 
third cup of butter; flavor. Place it in spoonfuls on 
the dessert. 

LEMON SAUCE. 

Make it like Hard Sauce, but instead of other 
flavoring, use the juice of a lemon. 

FOAMING SAUCE. 

Beat the whites of three eggs to a stiff froth; dis- 
solve a teacup of sugar in a little water, let it boil, 
stir in a wine glass of some fruit juice (canned or 
fresh) and then the whites of the eggs; serve at 
once. 

CREAM SAUCE. 

One teacup powdered white sugpr, scant half tea- 
cup butter, half teacup rich cream; beat butter and 



THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER Y. 107 

sugar thoroughly, add cream, stir the whole into half 
teacup boiling water, place on stove for a few mo- 
ments, stirring it constantly, take ojff and add flavor- 
ing. 

WHIPPED CREAM SAUCE. 

Whip a pint of thick cream, add the beaten whites 
of two eggs, sweeten to taste; place pudding in cen- 
ter of dish, and surround with the sauce. 

PASTRY. 

Bake pies in a moderate oven, having a better 
heat at the bottom than at the top of the oven, or 
the lower crust will be clammy and raw. When 
done, the crust will separate from the pan, so that 
the pie may be easily removed. Remove at once 
from the tins, or the crust will become "soggy." 
Butter or lard for pastry should be sweet, fresh and 
cold. The water used should also be fresh and cold. 

CRUST FOR ONE PIE. 

Into a cup and a half of flour and a little salt, 
work two heaping tablespoons of cold lard; rub it 
into the flour till fine ; then wet up with cold water 
until soft enough to roll out easily, handling it as 
little as possible. Roll out thin, and to prevent the 
juice of pie from soaking into the under crust, beat 
an ^Q^^ well and with a bit of a cloth dipped into it, 
wet the under crust. Before covering the pie, wet 



io8 THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER Y. 

the edges of the under crust with cold water and 
when the upper crust is placed upon it, dip the thumb 
and fore-finger in flour, and with them press the 
edges of the two crusts firmly together all around, 
to prevent the juice from boiling out. Cut an open- 
ing in the center of the upper crust before placing 
it. Use plenty of flour on the board and on the roll- 
ing-pin and the crust will not stick. 

LEMON PIE. 

Use the grated peel and the pulp and juice of one 
lemon, one well beaten ^^^^^-^ one cup of sugar 
and one cup of cold water; in a little of this water 
blend thoroughly one heaping tablespoon of flour; 
mix all together well. Bake with two crusts. 

ONE-CRUST LEMON PIE. 

Use the grated peel and the juice of one lemon; 
(after grating off peel, with a sharp knife remove the 
white tough covering beneath it, then rub the lemon 
on the grater until all the juice is pressed out). To 
this add one cup of hot water, one tablespoon of 
corn starch blended with a little water, one cup of 
sugar, and boil till it thickens; when cool, add the 
well beaten yelks of two eggs. Bake crust sepa- 
rately (prick it in several places with a fork that it 
may not blister) when done, fill with the lemon jelly 
and cover with a meringue made of the well beaten 
whites of the two eggs, and two tablespoons of sugar. 
Brown in the oven. 



THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER Y. 109 

BLUEBERRY PIE. 

Wash and pick over a pint of berries; then cook 
till tender, adding two- thirds of a cup of sugar, a 
tablespoonful of vinegar and a tablespoonful of 
corn starch blended with a little water. Fill pie 
with this, cover with crust and bake. Elderberries 
and blackberries are nice cooked in the same way. 

STACK PIE. 

Make nearly enough crust for two pies; line four 
pie pans with crust; prick with a fork and bake sep- 
arately. Then cover each one with sauce or fruit of 
some kind and sweetened to taste, and stack them ; on 
the top crust, over the sauce, spread meringue made 
of the well beaten white of an egg and a table- 
spoon of sugar; brown in oven. 

LAZY PIE. 

Cover a well greased pie pan with sliced apples; 
add two-thirds of a cup of sugar and a little butter 
and cinnamon. Cover with a batter composed of 
one cup of sour milk, one-half teaspoon of soda, one 
^g,^') 3- little salt, one tablespoon melted butter, and 
about a cup and a half of flour. When baked, turn 
the pie bottom side up on a plate and cover the then 
top (or fruit side) with a meringue made of the well 
beaten white of an e^gg;^ and a tablespoonful of sugar. 
Brown in oven. 



I lo THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER K 

CORN STARCH PIE. 

One quart milk, yelks of two eggs, two tablespoons 
corn starch, three cups sugar; blend starch with a 
little milk, boil the rest of the milk, beat the yelks 
and add starch, stir in the boiling milk and add 
sugar; bake with an under crust, beat whites with 
two tablespoons sugar, put on top, and return to oven 
and brown. This will make two pies. 

CREAM PIE. 

Pour a pint of cream upon a cup and a half powdered 
sugar; let stand until the whites of three eggs have 
been beaten to a stiff froth; add this to the cream, 
and beat up thoroughly; grate a little nutmeg over 
the mixture, and bake in two pies without upper 
crusts. 

CUSTARD PIE. 

For a large pie, take three eggs, one pint of milk, 
half cup sugar, and flavor. The crust for custard pies 
may be baked before putting in the custard. 

MINCE MEAT. 

Two bowls chopped apples, one of chopped meat, 
with one-fourth pound suet, grated rind and juice of 
one lemon, two teacups molasses, one large teaspoon 
each of cinnamon and cloves, one nutmeg, one pound 
raisins, half pound currants, one-fourth pound citron 
cut fine, one quart cider, and sugar and salt to taste. 



THE G OLDEN MEAN IN CO OKER Y, in 

PIE-PLANT PIE. 

Mix half a teacup white sugar and one heaping 
teaspoon flour together, sprinkle over the bottom 
crust, then add the pie-plant cut up fine; sprinkle 
over this another half teacup sugar and heaping tea- 
spoon flour; bake fully three-quarters of an hour in 
a slow oven. Or, stew the pie-plant, sweeten, add 
grated rind and juice of a lemon and yelks of two 
eggs, and bake and frost like lemon pie. Grated 
orange peel is a nice flavoring. 

PUMPKIN PIE. 

Stew pumpkin, cut into small pieces, in a little 
water, and, when soft, mash with potato masher very 
fine ; let the water dry away, watching closely to pre- 
vent burning or scorching; for each pie take two well 
beaten eggs, two-thirds cup sugar, two tablespoons 
pumpkin, half pint rich milk (a little cream will im- 
prove it), a little butter and salt; stir well together, 
and season with cinnamon or nutmeg; bake with 
under crust in a hot oven. Some steam pumpkin in- 
stead of stewing it. 

PEACH PIE. 

Bake in two separate tins an under and upper 
crust in a quick oven fifteen minutes; when done 
place in the lower crust one quart peaches prepared 
by slicing, and adding three tablespoons each of 
sugar and cream, cover with the top crust, and place 
in oven for five minutes. 



1 12 THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER K 

COCOANUT PIE. 

One cup of sugar, the well beaten whites of three 
eggs, half a grated cocoanut. Bake one crust; when 
done fill with the above; slightly brown in oven. 

SHORT-CAKE. 

One-half cup of butter worked into one quart of 
flour, three heaping teaspoons of baking powder, the 
well beaten yelk of an ^^^^ a little salt, and enough 
milk to make a thick batter. Bake quick; split in 
two with a warm knife; cover with butter and then 
fruit of any kind, sweetened (canned fruit is nice). 
Turn the piece that was the top, the top side down, 
and cover with fruit the same as the other piece. 
Over all spread whipped cream or a meringue made 
of the well beaten white of an ^^^^^ and a table- 
spoonful of sugar. Brown slightly in oven. 



CHAPTER XI. 
Jellies — Jams — Preserves — Pickles. 

JELLIES. 

Always make jellies in a porcelain kettle if possi- 
ble, but brass may be used if scoured very bright (or 
new tin) if the fruit is removed immediately on tak- 



THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER K \ii 

ing from the fire. Use the best refined or granula- 
ted sugar, and do not have the fruit, especially cur- 
rants and grapes, overripe. 

To extract the juice, place fruit in kettle with just 
enough water to keep from burning, stir often, and 
let remain on the fire until thoroughly scalded; then 
strain a small quantity at a time through a strong 
coarse flannel or cotton bag wrung out of hot water, 
after which let it drain, and squeeze it with the hands- 
as it cools, emptying the bag and rinsing it off each 
time it is used. The larger fruits, such as apples 
and quinces, should be cut in pieces, cores removed 
if at all defective, enough water added to cover them, 
boiled gently until tender, turned into a bag and 
placed to drain for three or four hours or over night. 
As a general rule allow equal measures juice and 
sugar. Boil juice rapidly fifteen minutes from the 
first moment of boiling, skim, add sugar, and boil five 
minutes longer. Before covering jelly dishes, when 
jelly is cold, cover with letter-paper cut to fit dish 
and wet in brandy. Paste paper over bowls and un- 
covered dishes; keep in dark, cool, dry place. 

CURRANT JELLY. 

Do not pick from the stem, but carefully remove 
all leaves and imperfect fruit, and follow general 
directions; red raspberries and currants mixed make 
a nice jelly. 



1 14 THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER K 

CRANBERRY JELLY. 

Prepare juice as in general directions, add one 
pound sugar to every pint, boil and skim; test by- 
dropping a little into cold water (when it does not 
mingle with the water it is done); rinse glasses in 
cold water before pouring in the jelly to prevent 
sticking. 

GRAPE JELLY. 

Prepare fruit; scald; strain through a cloth; boil 
slowly twenty minutes, skimming often, then add 
sugar (a quart for a quart) and boil five minutes. 

QUINCE JELLY. 

Rub the quinces with »* cloth until perfectly 
smooth, cut in small pieces, pack tight in a kettle, 
pour on cold water until level with the fruit, boil un- 
til very soft; make a three-cornered flannel bag, 
pour in fruit and hang up to drain. To a pint of 
juice add a pint of sugar and boil fifteen minutes, or 
until it is jelly; pour into tumblers, or bowls, and 
finish according to general directions. If quinces 
are scarce, the parings and cores of quinces with 
good tart apples, boiled and strained as above make 
excellent jelly. 

CRAB APPLE JELLY. 

Wash and quarter Siberian crabs, but do not core, 
cover to the depth of an inch or two with cold water, 
and cook to a mush ; pour into a coarse cotton bag or 



THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKERY. 115 

strainer, and when cool enough, press or squeeze 
hard, to extract all the juice. Allow the strained 
juice of four lemons to a peck of apples, and three 
quarters of a pound of sugar to each pint of juice. 
Boil the juice from ten to twenty minutes; while 
boiling sift in the sugar slowly, stirring constantly, 
and boil five minutes longer. 

PIE-PLANT JELLY. 

Scald till tender in a little water; strain; add the 
juice of lemons in the proportion of one lemon to 
one quart of pie plant juice; boil forty minutes, 
skimming often, add sugar, measure for measure; 
boil five minutes and put in jelly dishes. 

PEACH JELLY. 

Pare, stone and slice the peaches; heat in a pot of 
boiling water, stirring occasionally until the fruit is 
well broken. Strain, and to every pint of peach 
juice add the juice of a lemon. Measure again, and 
to every pint of peach juice add a pound of sugar. 
Heat the sugar very hot, and add when the juice has 
boiled twenty minutes. Let it come to a boil and 
take instantly from the fire. 

RIBBON JELLY. 

Soak one package of Coxe's gelatine in one cup of 
cold water three hours. Add a cup and a half of 
sugar to two-thirds of it and a pinch of cinnamon; 



1 16 THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER V. 

pour on it four cups of boiling Avater, when perfectly- 
dissolved; strain it; color half of it with a little pul- 
verized cochineal rubbed up in a tablesponful of 
water and then strained (a teaspoonful of this dye 
will color a cup of jelly). Wet a mold with cold 
water, and pour in a little of the plain jelly; set it 
on the ice. (Wine glasses or egg cups are pretty 
molds to use.) While this is cooling, make jelly of 
the reserved third of the soaked gelatine by heating 
a cup of milk, putting in half a cup of sugar, then 
the gelatine; stir until melted and strain. When 
the jelly on the ice is firm enough to bear another 
layer on top of it, pour on a little of the red jelly 
and set on ice; when cool add a layer of the white; 
when perfectly solid it will turn out nicely and be 
yellow, red and white alternately. 

JAMS. 

In making jams the fruit should be carefully 
cleaned and thoroughly bruised. Boil fifteen or 
twenty minutes before adding the sugar, as the flavor 
of the fruit is thus better preserved (usually allowing 
three-quarters of a pound of sugar to a pound of 
fruit) and then boil half an hour longer. Jams re- 
quire almost constant stirring. To tell when any 
jam is sufficiently cooked, take out some of it on a 
plate and let it cool. If no juice or moisture gathers 
about it, and it looks dry and glistening, it is done 
thoroughly. 



THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER V. 117 

GRAPE JAM. 

Press out the pulp and preserve the skins; scald 
the pulp, then press it through the colander to re- 
move the seeds; mix skins and pulp; add two- thirds 
of a cup of sugar to one of fruit and boil slowly some 
time until the skins are tender. 

CURRANT JAM. 

Pick from stems and wash thoroughly with the 
hands, put into a preserving kettle and boil fifteen or 
twenty minutes, stirring often, and skimming off any 
scum that may arise; then add sugar in the propor- 
tion of three-fourths pound sugar to one pound fruit, 
or, by measure, one coffee-cup of sugar to one pint 
mashed fruit; boil thirty minutes longer, stirring 
almost constantly. When done, pour in small jars or 
glasses, and either seal or secure like jelly. 

RASPBERRY JAM. 

Make by itself, or, better, combine with currants 
in the proportion of one-third currants to two- thirds 
raspberries; mash the fruit well, and proceed as in 
currant jam. 

Make Blackberry Jam like Raspberry, except that 
it should not be mixed with currants. 

Strawberry Jam is made like Blackberry. 

PRESERVES. 

Peel peaches, pears, quinces and apples, and throw 



1 18 THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER Y. 

into cold water as you peel them to prevent their 
turning dark. It is difficult to watch a large quan- 
tity so as to insure its being done to a turn, hence it 
is better to cook a few at a time. The old rule is " a 
pound of sugar to a pound of fruit;" but three- 
quarters of a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit is 
sufficient, and even less is sometimes used if sealed. 
Quinces, pears, citrons, watermelon rinds, and 
many of the smaller fruits, such as cherries, currants, 
etc., harden when put, at first, into a syrup made of 
their weight of sugar. To prevent this they should 
be cooked till tender in water, or in a weak syrup 
made from a portion only of the sugar, adding the 
remainder afterward. In preserving fruits, such as 
apples, peaches, tomatoes, plums and strawberries, 
and other fruits which are likely to become too soft 
in cooking, it is a good plan to pour the hot syrup 
over the fruit, or to strew over it a part or all the 
sugar, and allow it to stand a few hours; by either 
method the juice is extracted, and the fruit hardened. 

CITRON PRESERVES. 

Pare off rind, seed, cut in thin slices two inches 
long, weigh, and put in preserving kettle with water 
enough to cover; boil one hour, take out the citron, 
and to the water in kettle add as much sugar as 
there is citron by weight, boil until quite thick, replace 
citron, boil twenty minutes, take out, boil syrup until 



THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER V. 119 

it is like very thick molasses, and pour it over the 
fruit. Watermelon rinds sliced in the same manner 
(but soaked over night in salt and water) can be 
added and it will taste and look like citron. 

TOMATO PRESERVES. 

Scald and peel carefully small perfectly-formed 
tomatoes, not too ripe (yellow pear-shaped are best) 
prick with a needle to prevent bursting, add an equal 
amount of sugar by weight, let lie over night, then 
pour off all juice into a preserve kettle, and boil until 
it is thick syrup, clarifying with white of an egg; add 
tomatoes and boil carefully until they look transpar- 
ent. A piece or two of root ginger, or one lemon 
to a pound of fruit sliced thin and cooked with the 
fruit, may be added. By adding spices.^ this will be 
spiced tomatoes. 

QUINCE AND APPLE PRESERVES. 

Fourteen pounds of sweet apples (pound sweets) 
to seven pounds of quinces, and about sixteen pounds 
of sugar, cook apples and quinces separately, the lat- 
ter much longer than the former, in a little water. 
Add the sugar to the apples at once to toughen them ; 
when the fruit begins to be tender put it together 
and cook slowly for awhile; when sufficiently done, 
take out fruit and if the juice is not like a syrup, 
boil it down until it is. Seal in cans, or it will keep 
in small, well covered jars. Scald up if it is at all 



I20 THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER V. 

inclined to work. Of course sealing is the safer 
way. 

YELLOW TOMATO PRESERVES. 

Pour on boiling water to make the skins slip off 
easily. Then put them on to boil for one-half hour 
with sugar, measure for measure; then add six lem- 
ons (thinly sliced) to a peach basketful of tomatoes 
and boil slowly one hour and a half longer. Stir 
often or it will burn. It looks like amber and is de- 
licious. 

CHERRY PRESERVES. 

Choose sour ones; pit very carefully, allow an 
amount of sugar equal to the fruit; take half the 
sugar, sprinkle over the fruit, let stand about an hour, 
pour into a preserving kettle, boil slowly ten minutes, 
skim out the cherries, add rest of sugar to the syrup, 
boil, skim and pour over the cherries; the next day 
drain off the syrup, boil, skim if necessary, add the 
cherries, boil twenty minutes and seal up in small 
jars. 

PEAR PRESERVES. 

Pare, cut in halves, core and weigh (if hard, boil 
in water until tender, and use the water for the 
syrup) ; for syrup allow three-quarters pound sugar for 
each pound fruit, boil a few moments, skim, and cool ; 
when luke-warm add pears, and boil gently until syrup 
has penetrated them and they look clear; some of 



THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER V. 121 

the pieces will cook before the rest, and must be re- 
moved; when done, take out, boil down syrup a little 
and pour over them; a few cloves stuck here and 
there in the pears add a pleasant savor. 

PEACH PRESERVES. 

Preserve them in the same manner that the pears 
are preserved in the foregoing recipe. 

PICKLES. 

In making pickles use none but the best cider 
vinegar, and boil in a porcelain kettle — never in 
metal. A lump of alum, the size of a small nutmeg, 
to a gallon of cucumbers, dissolved and added to the 
vinegar when scalding the pickles the first time, ren- 
ders them crisp and tender, but too much is injuri- 
ous. Keep in a dry, cool cellar, in glass or stone- 
ware; look at them frequently and remove all soft 
ones; if white specks appear in the vinegar, drain off 
and scald, adding a liberal handful of sugar to each 
gallon, and pour again over the pickles; bits of 
horse-radish and a few cloves assist in preserving the 
life of the vinegar. If put away in large stone jars, 
invert a saucer over the top of the pickles, so as to 
keep them well under the vinegar. The nicest way 
to put up pickles is bottling, sealing while hot. The 
brine for pickles should be strong enough to float an 
^ggf make it in the proportion of a heaping pint of 
coarse salt to a gallon of water; freshen by scalding. 



122 THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER V. 

PICKLED PEPPERS. 

Take large green ones (the best variety is the 
sweet pepper) remove a slice from the top, take out 
all the seeds, soak in brine over night; in the morn- 
ing stuff with chopped cabbage, or chopped onions, 
cabbage and cucumbers, seasoned with mustard seed; 
replace the slice on the top and tie in place with 
string; put in jar, and cover with cold spiced vinegar. 

PICALLILI. 

Slice and soak one gallon of green tomatoes in 
salt and water over night. In the morning, drain 
and chop fine, also chop six onions and six green 
peppers; add one teaspoon of pepper, one of allspice, 
two of cloves, and of mustard, one-half pint each of 
black and white mustard seed, scald slightly in vine- 
gar; pour off vinegar and add cold vinegar, or pour 
on hot vinegar and seal in cans. 

SWEET PICKLED BLACKBERRIES. 

Three pounds of sugar to seven pounds of berries 
and one pint of vinegar; put spices (unground cin- 
namon and whole cloves) in a bag; scald fruit a few 
moments and skim out, boiling down the syrup a 
little; then adding fruit and boiling fifteen minutes. 

PICKLED SEED CUCUMBERS. 

Pare and slice lengthwise; soak over night in salt 
and water; in the morning drain well, and scald 



THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER V. 123 

in alum water ten minutes; use enough alum to make 
the water taste of it quite strong. Skim out slices 
and take the greatest pains in removing alum water; 
drain from one dish to another as long as you can 
drain anything off; then wipe each piece with clean 
dry cloths. When dry, boil in sugar and vinegar 
(pint for pint) till clear, adding unground spices in a 
bag. Remove the pieces as soon as they become 
clear; seal. 

GREEN TOMATO PICKLE. 

Slice and soak a gallon of tomatoes in salt and 
water over night. In the morning drain and scald 
till tender in half vinegar and water, also add six 
small onions (if you like them) ; in the meantime have 
three cups of sugar and about a quart of vinegar 
(and spices in a bag) scalding; when tomatoes are 
tender pour off the vinegar and water they were 
scalded in and add the hot, spiced vinegar, and seal. 

To pickle apples, pem's, peaches, cherries, etc., the 
rule is one pound of sugar to one pint of vinegar; 
boil fruit in it till it is clear; for the first three add 
cinnamon in a bag and put cloves in the fruit before 
cooking. 

For siceet apples, one pint of sugar to a quart of 
vinegar is enough. 



124 THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER V 

CHAPTER XII. 
BEVERAGES. 

Coffee — Tea — Broma — Chocolate — Lemonade 
Ice Cream — Ices, Etc. 

To avoid adulteration, buy the coffee in the grain 
and have it ground or grind it yourself. The best 
kinds are the Mocha and Java. A mixture of one- 
third of Mocha to two-thirds of Java is preferable to 
either one alone. A heaping tablespoon of coffee 
for each person and " one for the pot" is the usual 
allowance. Mix well with a little cold water and a 
part of an egg, then pour on boiling water and let 
it boil hard for eight or ten minutes; set it back for 
about five, and serve at once with cream if possible. 

coffee (No. 2). 

Have the coffee (one-third Mocha and two-thirds 
Java) ground as fine as flour; put it in a cloth bag 
on a tripod placed in the coffee pot and pour the 
boiling water through it, letting it stand three minutes 
before serving. Serve with cream if possible. It 
looks very nicely in the coffee if at first whipped 
with the egg-beater. 

coffee in large quantities. 

A pound and a half of coffee to a gallon of water 
is the general rule; boil eight minutes and set back 
to settle five minutes. Two or three eggs are used 
to a gallon of water. 



THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER K 125 

TEA. 

Scald the tea pot and put in a small teaspoonf ul 
of tea to each person; pour on boiling water and let 
it boil up briskly for about a minute; then set back 
and let it steep for about five minutes. Japan and 
Oolong mixed make a very nice tea; some prefer 
either one alone. 

CHOCOLATE. 

Rub five heaping tablespoonfuls of chocolate (bak- 
er's unsweetened) smooth in a little cold water; put 
it with three cups of boiling water and two cups of 
boiling milk; sweeten to taste; add teaspoonf ul of 
corn starch blended with water. A little cream im- 
proves it. 

COCOA NIBS. 

Wet two ounces of cocoa shells and let them steep 
an hour; then stir them into a quart of boiling water 
and cook slowly one hour. Strain and add two cups 
of scalded milk; sweeten to taste. 

BROMA. 

Into two cups of boiling water and two cups of 
boiling milk stir one heaping tablespoonful and a half 
of broma (previously blended with water) and boil 
five or ten minutes. Add one teaspoonful of corn- 
starch in a little water. Sweeten to taste. 



126 THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER V. 

A HARVEST DRINK. 

One quart of water, tablespoon sifted ginger, three 
heaping tablespoons sugar, half pint vinegar. 

LEMONADE. 

Roll four lemons well, slice thin, put over them 
one teacup white sugar; let stand a short time; add 
one quart of water; pour into pitcher and serve. 

SHERBET. 

One pine-apple, four lemons, two quarts water, 
two teacups sugar; steep the pine-apple in the water 
for two hours; strain and add the juice of the lemons 
and sugar; beat well the whites of five eggs, add to 
them three tablespoons of sugar; place all in freezer, 
freeze at once. 

ICE CREAM. 

Two well beaten eggs, nearly one cup of sugar, a 
little cream and one quart of milk cooked in a pail 
set in a pan of boiling water. Flavor and freeze. 

LEMON ICE CREAM. 

Squeeze a dozen lemons, make the juice quite thick 
with white sugar, stir into it three quarts of cream, 
and freeze. Orange ice cream is prepared in the 
the same way, using less sugar. 

PINE-APPLE ICE CREAM. 

Three pints cream, two large ripe pine-apples, two 



THE G OLDEN MEAN IN CO OKER Y. 127 

pounds powdered sugar; slice the pine-apples thin, 
scatter the sugar between the slices, cover and let 
the fruit stand a while, cut or chop it up in the syrup, 
and strain ; beat gradually into the cream, and freeze ; 
reserve a few pieces of pine-apple unsugared; stir 
in a pint of well whipped cream. 

STRAWBERRY ICE CREAM. 

Sprinkle strawberries with sugar, wash well and 
rub through a sieve; to a pint of the juice add half 
a pint of good cream, make it very sweet; freeze, 
and when beginning to set, stir in lightly one pint of 
cream whipped. 

CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM. 

Scald one pint new milk, add one cup of sugar, 
two eggs, and five tablespoons chocolate rubbed 
smooth in a little milk. Beat well for a moment 
or two, place over the fire and heat until it thickens 
well, stirring constantly, set off, add a tablespoon of 
thin, dissolved gelatine, and when cold, place in 
freezer; when it begins to set, add a quart of rich 
cream, half of it well whipped. 

ORANGE ICE. 

Boil one cup of sugar in one quart of water; when 
cool add the juice of six oranges; steep the rinds in 
a little water, strain, and flavor to taste with it. 
Freeze. 



128 THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER K 

STRAWBERRY ICE. 

Mash two quarts of strawberries with two pounds 
of sugar; let stand an hour or more, strain through 
a cloth, pressing out all the juice; add an equal 
measure of water; and when half frozen, add the 
beaten whites of eggs in the proportion of three 
eggs to a quart. 

LEMON ICE. 

To the juice of three lemons, add one quart of 
boiling water and two cups of sugar. When partly 
frozen add the whites of three eggs, beaten to a stiff 
froth. 



CHAPTER XIII. 
Ceeams — Custards — Fruits — Confectionery. 

RASPBERRY CREAM. 

One quart good cream, one pint fresh raspberries; 
mash and rub fruit through a fine sieve or strainer, 
to extract the seeds; bring half the cream to a boil, 
and add it to the berries while it remains hot, sweeten 
with powdered sugar to taste, let it become cold. 
Now beat cream which has been reserved to a froth 
with a beater; fill dish or glasses with the cream 
and place froth on top. 



THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER Y. 129 
WHIPPED CREAM. 

One and one-half pints good rich cream sweetened 
and flavored to taste; whip to a stiff froth. Dissolve 
three-fourths ounce best gelatine in a small teacup 
hot water, and when cool pour into the cream; stir 
thoroughly, pour in molds and set on ice, or in very 
cool place. 

^ CHARLOTTE RUSSB. 

Line a pudding dish with thick slices of sponge 
cake. Pour over this one ounce of gelatine dis- 
solved in one cup of boiling milk, one pint of whip- 
ped cream, one and a half cups of sugar, and fla- 
voring well mixed together; and over all pour the 
well beaten whites of four eggs; set on ice. 

APPLE CREAM. 

Pare, core and bring to boil in as little water as 
possible six tart apples, cool and strain, beat well 
and add the well whipped whites of three eggs, 
sweeten to taste and beat thoroughly until like a dish 
of snow; flavor with lemon or vanilla, or add the 
' grated rind of a lemon; serve with sweetened cream. 

BLANC-MANGE. 

Dissolve three heaping tablespoons corn starch 
and three of sugar in one pint of milk; add to this 
the whites of three eggs well beaten, and pour the 
mixture into one pint of boiling milk, stirring con- 
stantly until it boils again; just before taking from 



130 THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER V. 

the stove flavor to suit the taste and pour into cups 
or small molds; when cool take out and place in a 
glass dish with a mold of jelly in the center. Serve 
a spoon of jelly and a sauce of sweetened cream 
with each mold. 

CUSTARD. 

Two well beaten eggs, three-fourths of a cup of 
sugar, one pint of milk; flavor with nutmeg and 
bake till solid. 

FLOAT. 

Into one quart of hot milk stir the well beaten 
yelks of six eggs, half a cup of sugar, and a tea- 
spoonful of corn starch. When thickened slightly 
flavor, and put in sauce dish. Then beat the whites 
of the six eggs to a stiff froth and drop into a spider of 
boiling water a tablespoonf ul at a time ; removing as 
soon as it swells up and placing on the custard. 

ORANGE FLOAT. 

Make this like the plain Float, but before adding 
whites, put into the custard, when partially cool, two 
sliced oranges. Then add the whites as before. 

FRUITS. 

Nutmeg melons should be set on the blossom ^nd, 
and cut in several equal pieces from the stem down- 
ward, leaving each alternate piece still attached; the 
others may then be loosened, and the seeds removed, 
when the melon is ready to serve. 



THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER Y. 131 

Serve oranges in a similar way, %. 6., separate (and 
turn down) the peel in quarters, without removing it. 
Water melons should be cut in two in the middle if 
long, and then cut lengthwise in slices. Berries 
should be served with pulverized sugar and cream if 
possible. Peaches also. 

BAKED APPLES. 

Pare, and core with an apple corer some tart ap- 
ples; fill the cavities with sugar; add a little water 
to bake them in; serve with cream. 

FRIED APPLES. 

Slice thin without paring; fry in greased spider; 
sprinkle with sugar while frying; serve hot. 

STEWED PIE-PLANT. 

Peel and cut up the pie-plant and sprinkle thick 
with sugar; let it stand a few moments then cook till 
tender; it will not be necessary to add any water as 
the sugar and juice will already have made a syrup. 

SNOW FLAKES. 

Grate a large cocoanut into a glass dish and serve 
with cream, preserves, jelly or jam. 

CHOCOLATE CARAMELS. 

One cup of chocolate shaved fine, one cup molas- 
ses, half cup milk, one cup sugar; boil; when nearly 
done add a piece of butter size of a walnut. Stir 



132 THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER K 

until the chocolate is perfectly dissolved, but not 
after it begins to boil, as that will make it grain. It 
is done if it hardens quickly when dropped in cold 
water, but do not make it too hard. Grease plates 
with butter, and pour it on them; when nearly cool 
cut with a greased knife into small squares. 

LEMON CANDY. 

Take a pound loaf sugar and a large cup water; 
after cookincr over a slow fire half an hour, clear with 
a little hot vinegar; skim; test by raising with a 
spoon, and when done it "threads." Pour into a 
tin pan. 

MOLASSES CANDY. 

One cup of N. O. molasses, one cup of sugar, one 
tablespoon of vinegar, a small piece of butter, and 
just before it is done a half teaspoon of soda well 
stirred in. Try it by dropping it in cold water, as 
s(3on as it hardens immediately it is done, pour it on 
greased plates and set out doors to cool. Begin to 
pull it as soon as you can or it will get too hard to 
pull before it is white enough; make one long stick 
of it and break it into short ones by striking it hard 
Avith a knife when cold. 

NUT CANDY. 

Make this just like the Molasses Candy but before 
pouring the molasses on greased plates, cover them 
with the meats of any nuts you like; then pour the 



THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER K 133 

molasses over them when it is done. When cold cut 
it in squares, having marked them off when the mo- 
lasses was but partially hardened. 



CHAPTER XIV. 
A GENERAL BILL OF FARE. 

For Breakfast. 

MEAT. 

Steak, or dried beef and cream, ham, pork, sausage, 
veal cutlets, mutton chops, bacon, liver, cod-fish, 
mackerel, or fresh fish. 

POTATO. 

Mashed, or baked, fried in slices, or in balls, 
warmed in milk, or made into hash, or croquette balls. 

BREAD. 

Wheat, graham, oatmeal or rje, gems, rusk, waf- 
fles, baking powder biscuit. Johnny-cake, or steamed 
stale bread. 

RELISHES. 

Cookies, or doughnuts, griddle cakes, oatmeal, 
rice, hominy, or cracked wheat. 



134 THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKERY. 

DRINKS. 

Tea, coffee, chocolate, broma, or cocoa nibs. 
For Dinner. 

MEAT. 

Beefsteak, beef stew, beef roast, pork roast, mut- 
ton roast, fish, fowl, game, or oysters. 

POTATO. 

Mashed, or baked, sweet potatoes, or Irish. 

VEGETABLES. 

One or more of fresh or canned vegetables. 

DESSERT. 

Pudding, pie, or short-cakes. 

RELISHES. 

Horse radish, catsups, pickles, jellies, cheese, &c. 

DRINK. 

Tea, coffee, broma, chocolate. 

BREAD. 

White, graham, oatmeal, rye, steamed corn bread, 
raised biscuit, or rusk. 

For Tea. 

BREAD. 

Wheat, graham, oatmeal, or rye, steamed stale 



THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKERY. 135 
bread, or baking powder biscuit. 

SAUCE. 

Fresh, canned, preserved, or dried fruit, custards, 
creams, jellies, or jams. 

CAKE. 

Layer or loaf cake, cookies, tarts, or cream puffs. 

SOMETHING WARM. 

Hash, croquette balls, potato balls, milk toast, dry 
toast, breakfast toast, fried bread, fried potatoes, po- 
tato warmed in milk, potatoes in their jackets. 

MEAT. 

Canned, sliced cold, or dried. 

RELISHES. 

Pickles, cheese, jellies, etc. 

DRINK. 

Tea, hot or iced, iced milk, or lemonade. 



CHAPTER XV. 
Food for the Sick. 



BEEF TEA. 

Take a pound of juicy lean beef and mince it. 



136 THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER V. 

Put it with its juice into an earthen vessel containing 
a pint of tepid water, and let the whole stand for 
one hour. Slowly heat to boiling point, and let boil 
for three minutes. Strain liquid through a colander, 
and stir in a little salt. If preferred, a little pepper 
or allspice may be added. 

Mutton tea may be prepared in the same way. It 
makes an agreeable change when the patient has be- 
come tired of beef tea. 

BEEF BROTH. 

Cut in small pieces one pound of good lean beef, 
put on in two quarts of cold water and boil slowly, 
keeping it well covered, one and one-half hours; 
then add half a teacup tapioca, which has been soaked 
three-quarters of an hour in water enough to cover, 
and boil half an hour longer. 

MUTTON BROTH. 

Put two pounds of mutton and two quarts cold 
water to boil, add one tablespoon rice washed care- 
fully through several waters. Let it boil till the 
meat will leave the bone, and the rice is cooked to a 
liquid mass. Take from the fire, season with a little 
salt. 

ESSENCE OF BEEF. 

Put a sufficient quantity of chopped, lean beef 
into £u bottle to fill up its body, cork it loosely ^ and 
place it in a pot of cold water, attaching the neck, 



THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER Y. 137 

by means of a string, to the handle of the kettle. 
Boil this for an hour and a half or two hours; then 
pour off the liquor and skim it; to this add salt. 

RAW BEEF. 

Chop fresh, lean beef (the best steak or roast) very 
line, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and put between 
thin slices of graham or white buttered bread. This 
is a very nutritious diet. 

CHICKEN BROTH. 

Take the first and second joints of a chicken; boil 
till tender in one quart of water; season with salt 
and pepper if allowable. 

MILK PORRIDGE. 

One cup of water, one of milk and a pinch of 
salt; when boiling, add one tablespoonful of flour 
blended with a little water. A tablespoon of sweet 
cream improves it very much if the patient can bear it. 

CORN MEAL GRUEL. 

Add to three pints boiling water two tablespoons 
corn meal, stirred up with a little cold water; add a 
pinch of salt and cook twenty minutes. 

RICE WATER. 

Wash four tablespoons of rice; put it into two 
quarts of water, which boil down to one quart, and 
then add sugar or salt. This makes a pleasant drink. 



138 THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER V. 

A pint or half a pint of milk added to the rice water, 
before it is taken from the fire, gives a nourishing 
food. Sago, tapioca, barley, or cracked wheat can be 
prepared in the same manner. 

BARLEY WATER. 

Add two ounces pearl barley to half pint boiling 
water; let simmer five minutes, drain and add two 
quarts boiling water; strain and season to taste with 
salt or sugar. 

WINE WHEY. 

One pint of boiling milk, two wine glasses of wine, 
boil a moment, stirring well; take out the curd, 
sweeten and flavor the whey. People who have scru- 
ples against the use of wine can raise no objections 
to Wine Whey, as the boiling destroys all fermenta- 
tion. It is excellent for one in a reduced state. 

UNFERMENTED W^INE. 

This is excellent for invalids and is much used for 
church purposes. Pick the grapes from the stem; 
wash and bruise them; to four quarts of this pulp 
add three pints of Avater; scald, and strain them 
through a colander once, and twice through a cloth; 
then add one and one-half, or one and three-fourths 
pounds of sugar; give one final scald and seal in 
bottles or cans. 

KUMYSS. 

Take three quarts of good, rich, sweet milk; one 



THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER V. 139 

quart of hot water, in which dissolve one-half pint 
sugar; add the hot water to the milk; when this mix- 
ture is lukewarm add three tablespoons of brewer's 
yeast; set in a moderately warm place, stir often, 
and, when it begins to sparkle (which will be in about 
one and a half hours) put it into strong bottles and 
cork tight; put in a cool place and in eight hours it 
will be ready for use. 

RASPBERRY RELISH. 

To each pint of berry juice add one pound of 
sugar. Let it stand over night; next morning boil 
ten minutes, and bottle for use. 

SEA MOSS FARINE. 

Dessert spoon of sea moss farine, quart boiling 
water; steep a few minutes, sweeten and flavor with 
lemon (leaving out rinds). This is a very pleasant 
drink and is good for colds. 

CURRANT SHRUB. 

Make the same as jelly, but boil only ten minutes; 
when cool, bottle and cork tight. Raspberry, straw- 
berry and blackberry shrubs are made in the same 
way; when used, put in two-thirds ice water. 

CRUST COFFEE. 

Toast slowly and nicely one or two slices of bread; 
pour on it boiling water, and season with sugar and 
cream. 



I40 THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER Y. 

TOAST. 

Toast slices of bread, scrape off any blackened, 
charred portion; lay on a soup plate, pour on hot 
milk enough to wet through, and leave half an inch 
or so in depth of milk in the plate. 

RAW EGGS. 

Beat an Q^'g thoroughly, the white and yelk sep- 
arately; then whip together slightly and put in a 
glass, add a teaspoon or two of sugar; flavor and fill 
up the glass with milk. Some like the clear Q^^'g^ 
sweetened. ' 

COOKED EGGS. 

It is better to cook eggs for invalids by dropping 
them in boiling water; cook soft. 

IRISH MOSS JELLY. 

Half an ounce of Irish moss, boiled in a pint and 
a half of milk or water; boil down to a pint; strain 
trough a cloth and add one cup of sugar and the 
juice of one lemon. 

Tapioca, sago, rice, oatmeal, cracked wheat, etc., 
are good for invalids when convalescing. The tapi- 
oca should be soaked over night; they should all be 
corked thoroughly; if you have not a double boiler 
for the purpose, cook a half a cup of either one with 
a little salt and a pint of cold water in a covered tin 
pail set in a kettle of boiling water. Do not stir it 
till done. 



THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKERY. 141 



INDEX 



Page. Page. 

Apple Roley Poley 97 Cakes, Corn 74 

Apples, Baked 131 Cakes, Rice 74 

Apples, Fried 131 Cake Baking 78 

Asparagus 60 Cake, Baker's Transformed... 104 

Barley Water 138 Cake, Bread 80 

BatterCakes 74 Cake, Chocolate Layer 87 

Beef 33 Cake, Cocoanut 84 

Beef, Dried 31 Cake, Cocoanut Layer 87 

Beef, Essence of 136 Cake, Corn Starch 82 

Beef, Potted 32 Cake, Corn Starch, No. 2 83 

Beef, Raw 137 Cake, Coffee 83 

Beef Tea 135 Cake, Cream Fruit 81 

Beef with a Dressing 61 Cake, Delicate 84 

Beans, Baked 70 Cake, Fruit, Nos. 1, 2 and 3, 81 & 82 

Beans, Butter 61 Cake, Layer 86 

Beans, Porridge 70 Cake, Fig Layer 89 

Beets, Plain 61 Cake, Hickory Nut Layer 88 

Bill of Fare, General l:W Cake, Ice Cream Layer 88 

Biscuit, Baking Powder 14 Cake, Orange Layer 88 

Biscuit, Raised 12 Cake, Peach Layer 89 

Blackberries, Sweet Pickled ... 122 Cake, Raisin Layer 89 

Blanc-Mange 129 Cake, Layer Batter 105 

Bread 7 Cake, Lemon Layer 86 

Bread, Boston Brown 11 Cake, Marble 84 

Bread, Hop Rising 8 and 9 Cake, Molasses 83 

Bread, Graham 10 Cake, Nut 80 

Bread, Oatmeal 11 Cake, One Egg 85 

Bread, Rye 11 Cake, Ribbon 89 

Bread, Salt Rising 10 Cake, RollJelly 86 

Bread, Sour Milk Graham 10 Cake, Snow : 85 

Bread, Steamed Corn 11 Cake, Sour Cream 87 

Bread Cakes 74 Cake, Sponge 83 

Broth, Beef 136 Cake, White 81 

Broth, Chicken 137 Cake, White Fruit 82 

Broth, Mutton 336 Cake, White Starch Sponge ... 86 

Broma 125 Cake, Yellow 84 

Buckwheat Griddle Cakes 73 Candy, Lemon 1.32 

Buckwheat Cakes, Horsford's. 73 Candy, Molasses 132 

Butter, Drawn 56 Candy, Nut 132 

Cabbage, Creamed 63 Caper Butter 55 

Cakes, Batter 74 Caramels, Chocolate 131 

Cakes, Bread 74 Catsup, Cucumber 53 



142 THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER K 



Page. 

Catsup, Currant 53 

Catsup, Tomato 52 

Cauliflower 63 

Charlotte Russe 124 

Chicken, Broiled 44 

Chicken, Fricasseed 44 

Chicken, Fried Spring 46 

Chicken, Pickled 4;i 

Chicken Pie 45 

Chicken, Prairie 51 

Chicken, Pressed 43 

Chicken, Roast 39 

Chicken, Steamed 43 

Chicken, Stewed with Biscuits 46 

Chili Sauce 53 

Chocolate 125 

Cocoa Nibs 125 

Cocoanut Jumbles 76 

Codfish Balls 38 

Codfish, Boiled 35 

Codfish Gravy 36 

Codfish, Fresh, Boiled 86 

Coffee 124 

Coffee, Crust 139 

<^'orn 62 

Corn Cakes TS 

< orn Meal Gruel 137 

Corn, Stewed 62 

t'ookies 75 

Cookies, Cream 75 

Cookies, Efjgless 75 

Cookies, Ginger 76 

Cookies, Su^ar 75 

Cream, Apple 129 

Cream Puffs 85 

Cream, Raspberry 128 

Cream. Whipped 129 

Crystallization 96 

Cucumbers, Pickled Seed 122 

Curry Powder 50 

Currant Shrub 139 

Custard 130 

Dandelions 64 

Doughnuts 76 and 77 

Duck, Roast 50 

Dumplings, Boiled Apple 47 

Egg Plant 63 

Eggs 71 

Eggs, Cooked 140 

Eggs, Boiled 71 

Eggs, Fried 72 

Eggs, Poached 72 

Eggs, Raw 140 

Eggs, Scrambled 71 

Fish! 34 



Pagb. 
Fish,Baked a5 

Fish, Broiled 37 

Fish, Fried 36 

Float 130 

Float, Orange 130 

Frosting 90 

Frosting, Almond 91 

Fronting, Boiled 91 

Frosting, Cocoanut 92 

Frosting, Chocolate 91 

Frosting, with Gelatine 92 

Frosting, White and Colored . . 92 

Frosting, Yellow 92 

Fruits 130 

Game 46 

Gems, Graham 14 

Gems, Wheat 14 

Ginger Bread 77 

Ginger Bread, Cheap 77 

Ginger Bread, No. 3 78 

Ginger Cookies 76 

Ginger-Snaps 76 

Goose, Roast 51 

Greens, Beet 62 

Greens, Dandelion 64 

Gruel, Corn Meal 137 

Ham, Boiled 29 

Harvest Drink 125 

Hash 32 

Ice Cream 196 

Ice Cream, Chocolate 127 

Ice Cream, Lemon 126 

Ice Cream, Pine Apple 126 

Ico Cream, Strawberry 127 

Ice, Lemon 128 

Ice, Orange 127 

Ice, Strawberry 128 

Icing 93 

Icing, Chocolate 94 

Icing, Cream Chocolate 95 

Icing, Water 94 

Jam 116 

Jam, Currant 117 

Jam, Grape 117 

Jam, Raspberry 117 

Jelly 112 

Jelly, Cranberry 114 

Jelly, Crab Apple 114 

Jelly, Currant 113 

Jelly, Grape 114 

Jelly, Irish Moss 140 

Jelly,Peach 115 

Jelly, Pie Plant 115 

Jelly, Ribbon 115 

Jelly, Quince 114 



THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER V. 143 



Page. 

Johnny Cake ; 15 

Jumbles, Cocoanut 76 

Kisses 105 

Kumyss 138 

Lemonade 126 

Liver, Fried 31 

Mackerel, Broiled 38 

Mackerel, Creamed 37 

Meats : 25 

Meat Croquettes 32 

MeatPie 33 

Minced Beef and Veal 33 

Muffins 14 

Mutton, Boiled with Caper Sauce 28 

Mutton Chops 28 

Oatmeal 104 

Omelette 72 

Onions, with Dressing 64 

Oysters, Broiled on theH'f Shell 23 

Oysters, Curried 23 

Oysters, Escaloped 22 

Oysters, Fried 21 and 22 

Oysters, Pan Roast 24 

Oysters, Pickled 24 

Parsnips 66 

Pastry 107 

Peach Rolls 100 

Peas, Green 66 

Pei)pers, Pickled 122 

Picalhli 122 

Pickles 121 

Pickles, Green Tomato 123 

Pickles, Seed Cucumber 122 

Pickled Blackberries 122 

Pie, Crust forone 107 

Pie, Blueberry 109 

Pie, Cocoanut 112 

Pie, Cream 110 

Pie, Corn Starch 110 

Pie, Custard 110 

Pie, Lazy 109 

Pie, Lemon 108 

Pie, Lemon, One Crust 108 

Pie, Mince Meat 110 

Pie, Peach Ill 

Pie, Pie Plant Ill 

Pie, Pumpkin Ill 

Pie, Stack 309 

Pie Plant, Stewed 131 

Porksteaks, Fried 29 

Pork, Fried Salt 29 

Pork, Roast 80 

Porridjje, Milk . ^ 137 

Potatoes, Fried Raw 65 

Potatoes, in Seven Ways 65 



Pagb. 

Potatoes, Mashed 46 

Potatoes, in Kentucky Style.... 65 

Potatoes, New 65 

Potatoes, Sweet 66 

Poultry 38 

Poultry, Dressing For 41 

Preserves 118 

Preserves, Cherry 120 

Preserves, Citron 118 

Preserves, Quince and Apple . 119 

Preserves, Peach 121 

Preserves, Pear 120 

Preserves, Tomato 119 

Preserves, Yellow Tomato 120 

Puddings 96 

Pudding, Apple Tapioca 101 

Padding, Chocolate 98 

Pndding, Cottage 103 

Pudding, Delmonioo 103 

Pudding, Gelatine 102 

Pudding, Pine \pple 100 

Pnddmg, Plain Bread 102 

Pudding, Rich Bread 102 

Pudding, Rice 101 

Pudding, Suet 100 

Pudding, Snow 103 

Pudding, Simple Fruit 99 

Pudding, Steamed 99 

Pudding, Tapioca 101 

Pudding, White Corn Starch. . 98 

Quail, Broiled 51 

Rabl)it8 50 

Raspberry Relish 139 

Rice Cakes 74 

Rice Balls 104 

Rice Water 137 

Rolls 13 

Rusk 13 

Salad, Beet 58 

Salad, Celery 58 

Salad, Chicken 57 

Salad, Lettuce 59 

Salad, Lobster 59 

Salad, Tomato 58 

Salmon, Canned 38 

Salsify (Vegetable Oysters) .... 67 

Sauce, Apple 55 

Sauce, Bread 55 

Sa jce, Cream 55 

Sauce, Cranberry 56 

Sauce, Lemon, for Fowls 55 

Sauce, M int 54 

Sauce, Mustard 54 

Sauce, Onion 54 

Sauces for Paddings 105 



144 



THE GOLDEN MEAN IN COOKER V. 



Page. 
Sauces— Hot Liquid, Egg, Hard, 

Lemon, Foaming, Cream 106 

Sauce, Whipped Cream 107 

Sauce, Caper 55 

Sherbet 126 

Shortcake 112 

Slaw, Plain Cold 57 

Slaw, Cold 57 

Slaw, Cream Dressing For 60 

Snails 13 

Snow Flakes 131 

Soups 13 

Soup, Beef 19 

Soup, Meatless Tomato 20 

Soup, Mutton 19 

Soup, Oyster with Milk 19 

Soup, Oyster Plain 20 

Soup, Veal 20 

Snipe 50 

Spinach 68 

Squash, Summer (Cymlings) . . 67 

Squash, Winter 67 

Steak,Baked 30 

Stews 20 

Stew, Parsnip 21 

Stew, Onion 21 

Stew, Oysters 21 



Pase. 

Stew, Plain Beef 2r; 

Succotash 68 

Sea Moss Farine 139 

Tea 125 

Tomatoes, Baked 69 

Tomatoes, Stewed 69 

Toast 140 

Toast, Breakfast 15 

Toast, Milk 15 

Tongue, Boiled Beef 27 

Tripe, Fried 27 

Trout, Cream-baked 38 

Trout, Fried 36 

Turkey, Roast 41 

Turkey, Oyster Dressing For . . 42 

Turnips 69 

Veal, Loaf 30 

Veal Cutlets, Fried 30 

Veal, Minced 33 

Vegetables 60 

Vegetable Oysters (Salsify) 67 

Waffles 15 

Wine, Unf ermented 138 

Wine Whey 138 

Woodcock, Fried 49 

Yeast Cakes 7 

Yeaet, Soft 8 



